SpeedoHealer + GIpro w/ATRE Installation tips
#16
no not yet, hope to do something about it tomorrow. will be interesting to see if anyone else has similar problems or is it just my beast.
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#17
Anybody hesitate a guess as to where are all the little switches supposed to be for the busa with regular setup? For unknown reasons, mine says it's going 160 parked. that's cool looking but i'm not convinced it has healed anything. lol. i have read the manual but if someone can just give me the answer, I'd appreciate it.
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#18
Glen giday re: speedo healer --------Example only.

1st you need to know how far out your speedo is , A gps is a good way to do this.
Lets say your speedo reads 80kph , & a gps reads 75.3 kph
that means you have a -5.9% error.
so you need to program the speedo healer to calibrate.

programing instructions--------

1 the ignition must be off
2 set all switches on
3 turn on the ignition
4 press the button --- that will clear the flash memory
5 set all swiches off exept #5
6 press the button 5 times
7 set the #6 switch on
8 set the #5 switch off
9 press the button 9 times
10 set #6 switch off -- and your done all data is stored.

sound hard but is not once you know your speedo error it
takes about 1 min to set up use the online calculater.
The best way to cross check odo is with gps.
If you need help drop me a pm and i will help you.
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#19
that 160 is just when you do the test as in my first post. after one gets over ones brain fart it really is very simple to programme.
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#20
Volvi try resetting from start again, it took me a few goes to make it work
Mine is set at 16% out (15.87 I think it worked out) I also run 17-43, don't know anything about a Pink wire thing, can you reconnect it back up?


Cheers Robert
Aren't all 'busas Copper, the others are just all poor slow copies !!!!!
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#21
Thanks Kym. All done. yep, simple brain fart as predicted. If I had of read the instructions properly it was point two. The GI doesn't look to bad on the side of the Tacho and works well. Cheers to Volvi for getting the kit. The poor Bus is a fat tart now.
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#22
well the diagnosis and thx to Pete from Pitstop who confirmed what he originally suspected, that the resistors down by the the GPS switch (behind the clutch) were 'modified' as in it only relays 5th and 6th gear rest is considered neutral, almost like a permanent atre. So in order for me to get my GI to work Id have to replace the switch at a cost of about $150 installed. So seeing I have atre anyway to pay just over $300 for some digit readouts just wont be worth it.

So am going to let the unit go and sell it for $150 delivered to whoever wants it. Of course its still new and with box and warranty. The price of them now I believe is $165.

Its doubtfull anyone else will come across the same situation as myself. As if anything was done to their early bikes it would just have been the pink wire and not the resistors.

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#23
Yep, same thing happened with 'S

Needed a stock GPS from wrecker without diode mod
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#24
Just a note on Speedo Healers to be aware of
When you set the signal ahead on the healer to show correct speed it shall also make the mileage over read. An idea of how much this is, an example when fitting the 350 K dash plates to the later 280 K face dash the mileage over read will be approx 180K for every 1000K travelled. So at 10,000 kilometers actually travelled the speedo will show 11,800 k on the odometer. the plus is it will show your getting great K's per litre
FF1 Edited by: fasterfaster1 at: 17/7/06 7:37 am
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#25
Nope Volvi you send over read signal (speedo healer does) to speedo so it drops the speedo back (when speedo is reading fast that is ) it's this over read that causes the odometer to record more than actual distance travelled.

Note below >>>

The 220 mph faceplates use a different scale than the 186 gauges. This is because it needs to cram the extra range into the available space. the gauge cluster has no idea the faceplates were changed and assumes that point A (we'll use the max speed of 186 as an example) is 186. When a 220 faceplate is installed, point A is no longer 186, but it is now 210. This is an equal percentage throughout the arc of the speedometer. The difference is a linear +13%. The table below assumes a 220mph faceplate is installed on a 186 mph gauge.
Original reading: Is now going to read:

25 28.25
50 56.5
100 113
150 169.5
186 210.18

This can easily be fixed with a speedometer calibrator such as the Yellow Box. BUT, this is very important, the speedometer and odometer work off of the exact same signal from the speed sensor and is independently calculated on the circuit board inside the gauge cluster to come up with the mileage traveled. When the signal is turned ahead by 13% to correct for the difference in the faceplates, the odometer then will read 13% too high. So, for every 1000 miles you travel, it will actually record 1130 miles.


FF1 Edited by: fasterfaster1 at: 17/7/06 1:19 pm
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#26
Pete isnt it the other way around seeing any settings made are minus and not plus, like -10%, -15% etc.
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#27
Nothin delivered yet - I gave my work address so won't miss it since we have reception etc.

Emailed AMC couple days ago...no reply yet. Am the only one who hasn't received theirs or is there a delay or 1st shipment sold out (I was informed mine was from the 1st shipment)

Mark.
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#28
i just installed mine last night
i was woundering what the difference between '5th' and '6th' gear TRE option is. can anyone help?
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#29
Volvi

Will the gear indicator work on a TL1000s because my mate wants one and I am sure Pete could answer that!!!!!
Blue Thunder!!!!

Andrew :)

Blue and Silver Bling the Best thing!!!!!
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#30
monyx I guess only AMC can answer you on that.

busanthony, as far as I know the 5th is suitable for the busa.

anycool, on theyre website says suitable for TL1000R/S (1998+) www.gi-pro.net/index.htm
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