effective repair to rear subframe
#1
It seems that quite a few of you have had problems with rear subframes breaking. Well, unfortunately, this has occurred to my bike. I am still in the process of following up a warranty claim, although apparently a great deal of information is necessary to approve replacement. For example, pillion weight, attached racks, style of riding and so on. This does not sound too encouraging.
Regardless, it was necessary for me to get my frame repaired. A friend suggested that I should have broken the steering head first due to my earlier appalling attempts at wheelies. Nasty SIC 13 !!!

Back to the subframe. I pillion quite a bit with a wayward woman who has less fear than me. We aren't exactly slow, so this might have caused premature breakage. Hurtling around a bend on the Old Pacific Hwy we heard a massive metallic bang, followed by a bit of mush at the rear.

Fortunately, the bottom lugs are mainly taking compression loads, so they, as well as the two pipes, held the plot together. Would not have been nice had a lightweight 4 into 1 been fitted. Apparently, all castings on the bike are good except for those on the subframe, which are porous and brittle. The frame sides form a VERY SHALLOW triangle. Enormous tension is exerted on the TOP LUGS. Continued flexing, strain and the like results in an almighty BANG!!!!!!!! I do not think that this is acceptable in view of its possible consequences to rider, pillion and other road user safety. Mine snapped at around 20000 kms. That is still a young frame in my view.

The TOP LUGS only had sheered above the battery, between the bolt holes and the alloy tubing. To get to the point, a guy who seems to be a master at metal fabrication made a jig, DIAGONALLY cut the upper tubes in line with the main frame lugs, crafted left and right TOP alloy plates about 4 inches long, also tapered, then welded them to the now tapered tubes. Immensely strong and looks better than original. Mounting holes were drilled and tapped and the whole lot fit perfectly. A trip to Phillip Island with half a ton of stuff, including a rather svelte pillion (a total horn bag......cool !!) failed to snap the thing again. I don't mean to be smartor Eddie the Expert, but two up wheelies......2nd gear to 175....... are now far more confidence inspiring. As yet their is no indication of fracture. Unfortunately, with the original castings you will never see deterioration. They are in one piece one moment, and snapped in half the next.

So if any of you need such a repair because ya having problems with original replacement let me know.

Of note....during the warranty claim I was told that the busa is not a touring bike, and should not have racks fitted since suzuki have yet to approve ventura and gearsack rack fitment. So why does it have a pillion seat, pegs and the like? Beats me ! Has anyone been similarly advised?

Anyway, the Busa was a doddle to pull apart and reassemble. Had an M model GSXR 1100 which, while I miss her greatly, was a total pig to pull to bits.

I need to stop raving. Thanks for reading and any comments you may have. See ya............ <i></i>
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#2
You said you still had twin pipes - original or aftermarket?

And, I take it, that you have at least a Ventura rack, or have you gone the whole hog with hard luggage?

I agree that inclusion of pillion seat and pegs would indicate that they expect you will take a pillion. One thing that was noted early on by a few Busa riders is that the pillion should climb on and off using the rider pegs, not the pillion pegs, as the whole rear end can be seen twisting if the pillion's weight is on one side only (particularly if you have a 4-into-1).

Does this modification/repair look better than the strengthening kit that is being brought in from the UK? This kit, while not cheap, requires no welding or drilling. <i></i>
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#3
Any chance of some pics ???
Brian <i></i>
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#4
I had the subframe break at 25000kms on the 1999 model and have been waiting for 4 weeks for a new frame which broke at 20000 kms on the 2000 model. Neither bike had a rack or a regular pilion , I am a bit on the heavy side at 89kgs and ride like I thought I could for this type of bike.
Could you please foward information on new one because the withdrawals are getting to me and Suzuki dont give a ####.
I would never feel safe on an original again, it is a problem with at least these 2 models it is not fiction the subframes that have not broken yet WILL with age and use break most probably when its out of warranty


thanks Busakhane <i>Edited by: busakhane at: 11/25/01 6:52:04 am
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#5
I can tell you, that 89 kg does not make you heavy for a Hayabusa rider. It probably puts you very much in the middle... I for one, carry my spare tyre with me! <i></i>
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#6
This has been in the back of my mind since I first found out about it. I'm still reluctantly running the standard alloy subframe. If I remember correctly the steel subframe is moderately expensive (anyone know?) and I've been waiting/hoping for an official recall.

I think it very irresponsible of Suzuki NOT to recall on this issue as resulting accidents from this flaw have nearly killed some owners.

Anyone thinking of action on this one? Legal even???

Adrian <i></i>
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#7
I have received the new subframe ! There were no mechanics working so I had to install myself.
The new one is made of steel and weighs 4.9 kg where as the old aluminum weighed just on 1 kg. The amount of weight added cancels out the weight saved by titanium exhaust. <i></i>
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#8
How much is all of this costing everyone?
Are the newer models modified to fix this problem or are Suzuki still sending out cheap crap? <i></i>
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