Hi All,
I'm having troubles getting the front wheel up in the air in 2nd gear. So, would like to try a front sprocket change from the 17 down to 16 or 15 teeth. I am led to believe that 1 tooth at the front roughly equates to 3 on the rear. Is this right? What sort of trade off is reqd once I've done it ie top end etc... Am I going in the right direction for getting the front up or should I concentrate on the rear? Also, mind my ignorance, but what is the GPS and can any workshop mechanic assist me in getting it done? BTL I'm also keen to change as its caused a few skiddies in my jocks a few times as well, is this an expensive mod? Is it an easy or difficult job to do? Can I source these bits in Aus?
Appreciate your thoughts and advice,
regards
Rob P <i></i>
It is preferable to go with the 43 tooth sprocket. Chain life is not compromised and the change in the angle of the chain assists in lifting the front wheel. Also, because the rear wheel has to be moved forward with the larger sprocket, the shorter wheelbase is a step in the right direction. The drawback is that the speedo will be very optomistic.
GPS is Gear Position Sensor. The ECU uses the different voltage outputs from the GPS to set the amount of ignition retard in the lower four gears; a consequence of meeting emmission standards. In 5th and 6th gear the ECU will fuel up the injection at wide open throttle and high revs to compensate for the ram air induction. The mod is to remove the resistors in the GPS for first through to fourth gears. Best left to someone that knows what they are doing. This mod has been explained to those mechanics that attended Suzuki training schools.
The BTL mod is a matter of welding up the unit and fitting spacers to the clutch springs. Once again best left to someone who knows what they are doing and can weld. Because the clutch has to be removed to get at the GPS these two mods are generally done at the same time. <i></i>
Great explanation JP.
Does any one know how the BTL and GPS mods effect your insurance firstly and secondly, your warranty?
Who would you go to in Melbourne to get these mods done? Any indications on what it should/might cost? <i></i>
My understanding is that any modification voids your warranty should something go wrong with it or be caused by it, but it cannot void your warranty on other warrantable items...
There are a couple of places doing BTL's in Melbourne, but if you are going to do the labour yourself (or have someone you want to do it), you can organise one through Colin from TenTenths in Sydney. His work in this area in particular has been highly recommended. <i></i>
Thanks for your input Richard,
I'm good at putting the air in the tyres, but that's it. Definately need to get it done by a professional. What about the GPS? Is it not worth doing? <i></i>
I haven't had it done, but I am lead to believe that it is worth the effort. <i></i>
JP has got it sussed !!! <i></i>
JP has it sussed, yes.
JP - are you doing this sort of stuff? <i></i>
Not any more. Am more interested in getting the GSX-R1000's going.
Regards
John <i></i>
Bill,
This is about to get interesting. The post on the BTL and GPS is of interest to us all, however, this is not the forum for pushing any ones business. Please do refrain in the future.
Please use some discression.
Regards Col
Your post will be deleted once this is posted. <i></i>
COL I had a slight stumble with light thottle in 2nd gear, after I put yoshi slip ons on.I have heard about the gps which has different timing for all gears not just 1-4.I built a box with the different resistor values(switchable) from the gps to the ecu.In 6th gear mode the stumble is gone and In lower gears it is smooth and torguey.5th the pickup in even better.My question is with this mod I have noticed more of a pitting noise from the motor in the lower gears.Is this caused by more fuel due to the 6th gear mapping or the retarded timing not in effect due to the mod regards GREG. <i></i>
Col has allowed me to answer this one.
I don't know.
No-one I know has the TRE mod (which is what you have done) so I don't know the effect of running the 6th gear ignition timing. I do know that all the timing curves i.e first through to sixth, are identical. It is only the starting point of the advance curve that differs.
I'm interested to know why it is a good thing to have the ECU fueling up at high revs and throttle openings in all gears? <i></i>
G'day Greg,
Just got in and it's only 11.30pm. Can anyone tell me where in the hell I can find another 10-12 hours in a day?
Thanks John, but may I add; Why would you want to have the ECM only read 6th gear. My understanding of how the Busa system works, is that it only fuels up the system in 5th & 6th gear at high throttle openings and since the Busa's don't seem to boost the air box that well you would be seeing an over rich condition in the lower gears particually if you give it some squrt.
The current system (a number of people I know use) seems to work well and offer good rideability. In all honesty I don't know anyone that is using this system ( other than you now) but from the understanding I have, I'd have to question it's use.
This isn't to say your wrong and I'm right, I just can't see the logic.
Regards Col <i></i>
I noticed your comment on the getting the 1000 going and had a friend say he was told not to run Optimax in his GSXR1000. Only unleaded. Any update on this? and is the viscosity of the fuel an issue? Pretty f....n wicked bike!! <i></i>
I think all the manufacturers are having trouble with Optimax. The higher density is a good thing for cars as they are invariably set lean (emissions etc.). Optimax brings the air/fuel closer to the ideal - so, more horsepower.
Motorcycles, particularly Suzukis, are rich to begin with. Ask anyone who has spent some time with a dyno and air/fuel meter and they will tell you that standard bikes have to be leaned out to give maximum horsepower. Have you noticed that fitting an after market exhaust and/or air filter to the FI Suzukis improves them without remapping? The GSX-R1000 is rich throughout the range so anything that makes it richer i.e. Optimax, is not a good thing.
I would not recommend standard unleaded in the 1000. Fuel needs to be a minimum 96 octane.
The bottom line on Optimax is - a good fuel if, and only if, the fuel system (FI or carbs) are set-up for it. <i></i>
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