Clutch Slipping 2000 GSX 1300R

[Al Schey]

[Maj]

original clutch lever ? some aftermarket dont let the port open completely to balance pressure when your not using the clutch
BTL std or welded/aftermarket ?
assembled stack height ?

[Al Schey]

[Maj]

It would be holding a significant pressure to let the clutch slip maybe you could crack the bleed screw when hot and see if it restores normal use ,

more suspect total clutch stack height , if the top hat bottoms out on the centre hub you get no pressure on the plates
and a welded BTL or aftermarket BTL usually needs heavier springs as the std ramp assists

[Al Schey]

It would be holding a significant pressure to let the clutch slip maybe you could crack the bleed screw when hot and see if it restores normal use ,

more suspect total clutch stack height , if the top hat bottoms out on the centre hub you get no pressure on the plates
and a welded BTL or aftermarket BTL usually needs heavier springs as the std ramp assists

Yes, I will try that this morning. I hear what you are saying about the stack height but it works perfect without the added pressure build up that it seems to be producing. Cold out of the garage the clutch works awesome. BTW, I dont have a BTL slipper. Its a stock set up as far as I can tell.
Ok, I hesitate writing this because of my embarrassment but here goes. I took it out for a ride and same symptom. Put a clear hose on the bleed valve and cracked er open. I got air mixed with fluid. So I put the Mityvac away and bled the system the old fashion way by pumping the lever and bleeding like you would a brake system. The free play came back so I took it out for a ride and so far seems ok. I bled it a couple more times just to make sure there was no air but the fluid looked good. Why am I embarrassed? Because I assumed there was no air in the system because I used the Mityvac to bleed it and it was that assumption that sent me off in a different direction. Thanks Maj! It was something you said that brought me back to basics where I should have been all along and missed it! I really appreciate you helping me with this! So, bottom line was I didnt bleed the system correctly and thought I did.

[Maj]

I am still a little concerned it did not release the pressure buildup from heat expansion, air or not

The banjo hose ends trap air, nearly always find a bit more once used , not enough to notice most times

Anyhow its good to see you have a working clutch again and know where to look if it repeats

[Al Schey]

[Maj]

relieve port or master cyl inlet should open to balance pressures , rubber cup in the master cyl may not totally clear the inlet
but supposed to be enough to top the system or vent back pressure as needed
you may have to strip and clean the master cyl, it could be something like buildup of gunk between the piston and retaining clip stopping the piston from returning all the way or the lever restricting the return
or rubber cup swelling from contamination

[Al Schey]

[Maj]

Sorry i forgot you mentioned a rebuild ,circlip is either in right or not , i am sure you would know by now if it were not right
Is there freeplay there at the pushrod end , thats where the aftermarket levers give trouble , slightly different specs give no freeplay , i know yours are std but still worth checking given the problems you have

[Al Schey]

[Kendo]

[Shordy]

I would say around 10mm free play on my gen 2.
If there wasn't free play, surely the clutch would be riding causing premature wear....

[Al Schey]

[Batfink]

Hi Al,

Been letting Maj help you out as he has way more knowledge and experience than me.....

Yes, mine has free play and like other about 10mm, I have also noticed after riding that the free play is still there no matter how long I ride.

It seems like, after eliminating mechanical maladjustments, that your system might have either a mico leak or water contamination that is creating a slow pocket of gasses to form. And as gasses(Oxygen or Hydrogen) increase their volume dramatically due to temp this could be the cause of you loosing free play and even clutch disengaging?

when you cleaned out your system did you use a hydrolic fluid, solvent or water?
when drying out system did you use compressed air or radiant heat?
How old are you lines?

My suggestion is to keep an eye on it and if there is any change then re-bleed your system and see if you have more gas. If so then replace all fluid again and repeat....
If there is still a build up of gas then replace all lines...

You could jump to line replacement but hydrolic fluid absorbs water, in fact water is actually attracted to the fluid. Once water is in the fluid then heat and pressures can separate the water into vapour or it's gasses.

While Hydrolic systems seem top be the most reliable for direct transfer of forces and even increasing those forces when it goes wrong you feel like the only way to fix it is a complete system replacement.

Hope you get it all sorted mate.

Cheers Batty