Hi all,
Fantastic site and great information. I'm a new owner of a 99 bronze/silver hayabusa and loving it but have concerns.
Since I've got the bike, i've noticed that when I go around corners at speed and when there are bumps, the bike tends to wobble over these bumps.
What could the problem be and how do I fix it? <i></i>
sounds like suspension, do some research on how to improve it. but in the end theres nothing like having your fork springs changed to heavier ones. not a cheap job tho. <i></i>
I've been researching a bit on suspension and have come to the conclusion that the dampers need to be set right.
Not too keen on using different springs. Plus I don't think it will make much of a difference with my weight of 65kgs.
Any idea of whether it would be too much or too little rebound or compression, front or rear?
Current settings are:
Front:
Preload 7 lines
rebound 2 clicks
comp 7 clicks
rear
rebound 5 clicks
comp 7 clicks.
<i></i>
Small tip. i just fitted Ohlins internals for the forks and a new spring, the mechanics showed me the stock fork and the revaleved fork .What difference,the stock fork was adjusted up to eight clicks at the bottom adjustment of the forks no difference then the last 2 clicks they went rock hard I cant explain well what I experienced but the revalved forks are a 150% better than stock. The reason I changed is I put in new springs but the valving couldnt handle the extra pressure
when i hit the twisties the front just pogoed around the corners,
and I noticed it big time at Eastern Creek around turn 1 when i went 15 mtrs accroos the track, the rear is fine as I put a Elka 3 way shock on it. Cheers,
Kawasuki<i></i>
Hayyah
I am not quite positive about what you mean by wobble around corners and without digging my handbook out, I don't know how close your settings are to standard.
I also have a 99 busa and weigh 78kg with all my gear on.
When I got my bike I had it set to standard as recommended in the owners manual.
However, I found that the rear was too hard for my weight and I took 1 turn only off the rear damping and rebound.
Now it is just right.
For an extra 10kgs less weight, I would start trying like I have mine and if it is still too hard, go another click softer on each till you get it right.
You can always get another member down that way to give it a quick test ride and they can compare the feeling and advise. Rgds BUSGO
"TAKE MY ADVICE"
I'm not using it anyway!<i></i>
Yep go faster and hop over the bumps
If your around Sydney NSW 1hotbusa is the Man to set up your bike for you he has done a lot of ours and its free well maybe 1 or 2 beers
ps he also LOVES working on Copper bikes because he know they are the best...
Cheers Robert
Aren't all 'busas Copper, the others are just all poor slow copies !!!!!<i></i>
I live in Melbourne and though I will be planning a trip to Sydney on the busa sometime in the near future, it won't be that soon.
That's a great idea about getting another member to compare. There's a few mechanics that have been reffered to me on this site that I'll probably check out.
I have the current settings about 2 to 3 clicks stiffer than standand but I'll try the suggestion of taking it back to standand then going from there.
I'm just used to the handling of more bendy bikes like the R1, zx9 and RGV.
Cheers all, and thanks for the input.
<i></i>
Hmmm... go faster you say...
Now that you mention it, it was very stable around 240km/h corners.
Or maybe that's why its wobbly. <i></i>
This is a bit basic, but my bike was doing the same thing. Then i pumped up the tyres and it stopped - they had dropped to 30psi after a service (THANKS TEAM MOTO VIRGINIA). Guess they forgot to check tyres - but they didn't forget to charge me money for it, while they were busy forgetting to wash it afterwards.
Sometimes it's the little things that count. <i>Edited by: m8ee at: 8/6/06 8:07 am
</i>
My experience for what it's worth.
I too have a copper/silver, 40,000kms.
I don't know if you've looked at the possible combinations of suspension settings, but there are 1,000s of combinations. Think about the racing guys for a minute. They have people just devoted to tuning suspension for each track. What are the chances of you getting it absolutely right for road work? Bloody slim! The relationship between compression and damping isn't all that obvious either! There's articles on web sites that give you good insight into the mysteries.
So, while mine was on stock settings, and seemed fine, I wanted to do a track day so went to a guy here in Perth that does just suspension and dyno work. Worth every penny.
First up, make sure the steering head bearings are OK and no slop evident. If they are fine, make sure the damper is OK.
Then look at suspension.
First up is sag. You may need some help in measuring that, but that is the one thing that should be set for the riders weight. Around 30mm sag is needed. If the current springs won't allow that, get them changed. For me, around $350 for new springs, some shimming and a dyno run.
He then set the compression and damping at what he new would be reasonable for my weight and the Wanaroo track and I'd have to say, I have had no bad feelings at all. In fact, I don't think I'm near testing the limits yet.
His advise is that springs/sag returns the biggest bang for the bucks after that, you can start spending more and more for less and less. Internals etc don't come cheap.
But, check the basics first. Head set bearings and damper must be in good nick and yes, tyre pressures too!
Good luck and I hope you can track down a guy as good as mine. I talked to him one day for 2 hrs and he charged $20!!
Now for the preaching! You will never tune the bike for Australian roads, they are too variable. Want to do 240km/hr? Do it on a track!! <i></i>
+1 what Bear said.
If you want more try these too:
Volvi's link
advice for Viking, a 65kg rider
SuzukiHayabusa.org site
Rocket's advice
DJ Pete's link
"sometimes crime does pay"<i>Edited by: pan at: 8/6/06 12:42 pm
</i>
Thanks for the post. I'll be taking my bike to Ron Balls today to get it checked out. It could be something more sinister like bearings, valves or something.
cheers, <i></i>
Its called outriding the standard suspension.Upgrade it or slow down,either will fix the problem.The standard suspension has such a limited range of damping adjustment its a joke.All or nothing,assuming the fork oil and everything else is ok.New front springs and aftermarket valving to suit the forks and a aftermarket rear shock will make a MASSIVE difference.You will have REAL adjustments front and rear to find a setting that suits your riding best.I did a track day with stock forks and an aftermarket shock and it was a bit of a handful under heavy brakes and exiting corners at the front.Yet the rear just felt as stable as anything. <i></i>
Hayyah,
If you only weigh 65kg and have stiffened the rear end. I bet that is the problem but also get your tyres to between 40 and 42psi cold.
Glenn, There is plenty of adjustment on the busas suspension if you use it right - unless they have been flogged and need rebuilding - just another sales pitch mate.
Rgds BUSGO
"TAKE MY ADVICE"
I'm not using it anyway!<i></i>
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