fuel pump again

[Pommie]

Getting a bit fed up of going here, looks like I'm going for my third fuel pump. I changed it in Sept last year. Engine wouldn't rev past 7000rpm, took pump out and tea bag strainer on inlet side was blocked solid almost. Cleaned it out, fitted new pump , been down to GOR and back to GC and running around since no probs. Few days ago I needed to give the old girl a fistful and 3rd gear got to 7000 and just ran out of power, Feathering the throttle it revved a little more but exact same symptoms as last time. Took pump out and filter blocked again. Ive only bought fuel from the one servo since coming back so I presume its their tanks are manky. Anyway I flushed it out again and a shitload of fine black crap came out of the filter housing. I'm thinking this has obviously gone through the pump and buggered it. Not getting enough pressure now. My question is has anyone got any idea how to back flush the other inaccessible filter on the outlet side of the pump housing. Its a GENI with pump inside the tank. I've tried backflushing it with carby cleaner, brake cleaner, petrol but I think it probably needs some sort of pressure behind it to really unclog it. I'm booking it in to test it on a dyno and have injectors cleaned next week but I'm 100% the problem is the pump. Inectors havent been touched as far as I know and its done 111000km now

[Aussie Steve]

There is a way of removing the internal filter then fitting an external Holden filter...at about $30 to $40. Will wait to see if the member wants to post his method.

[playswithnitro]

I've just been through this with my K1.

You can get a new housing with inbuilt filter for about $260 from www.mrcycles.com (USA). From an Australian Suzuki dealer you're looking at $280 to $360.

Or you can follow the instruction on this link (which is what I did): http://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenanc...r-mod.html

Replacement socks are available on ebay. Or included with cheap pumps.

I elected to throw the pump in the bin and fit one from Hamilton Motorsports on ebay for about $80 delivered.

Get your injectors cleaned properly by someone with all of the right gear.

On the Gold Coast, you'll find Powerhouse Dynotuning. Steve and Blair know what they're doing and have all of the right gear in-house.

[revhead]

just gut the internal filter ,fit a steel external like i have the thread is around here somewhere with pictures ,and all its not the pump ,the pump sends the fuel the filter if u bought a new one isjust a waste of good money ,

take pump fitler out of tank ,seperate fitler from pump ,get hacksaw blade cut top off internal filter ,pull bullshit paper centre out of filter ,the using a hot soldering iron , plastic weld top of filter back on ,re assemble pump filter ,i fitted two big arse cable ties over the filter ,as well then i bought a vr v6 fitler from repco ,and hi pressure fuel line ,and made it all work ,

you dont need dyno tuning you need fuel to the motor ,so save your money ,suzuki filters 300 plus waste of money ,this job will take 5 hours and cost around $50 ,

[Maj]

Main filter in the pump housing would have been a lot of your original problem , the bottom coarse strainer just keeps out the lumps big enough to stop the pump

i fill the filter with fuel and shake the shit out of it, and blow through backward only with a reduced pressure on the compressor
5 or 6 times is not unusual

[Pa King]

B Kings suffer the same problem. Mine did exactly the same , would not rev past 7000rpm. No whistle or noise ???

Pommie , after I contacted you last year regarding my problems ,Shane put me onto someone in the States that was selling a "brand new unused" Gen 2 fuel pump complete assembly for about $250.
I had to swap the float section and it was perfect again.

Got about 55,000k out of the original.

[GRUNTMAX]

Prevention is better than cure. Just make sure nobody is smoking at the gas pump, however the on-road safety issue to the rider is more important than burning down a Jingly Run Servo.

Worth every cent & your pump, injectors & everything else will last forever

http://store.schnitzracing.com/schnitz-w...el-funnel/

Maj is correct, however, if the pump is stuffed, bung one of these in it with same OEM Reg @ 43 psi, at least you'll never be short of flow.

http://store.schnitzracing.com/aem-320-l...usa-01-13/

...not a bad price really

http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/027/11142/10002/-1

[Pommie]

Thanks for the replies. The reason for putting it on.a dyno was not for tuning but to ensure the problem was identified and solved without using up the last of my points. Plus the injectors need cleaning regardless of what the pump is doing. I have a spare housing with the bottom already cut off so I might go that route but finding 5 hours spare is like looking for rocking horse poo.

[revhead]

Main filter in the pump housing would have been a lot of your original problem , the bottom coarse strainer just keeps out the lumps big enough to stop the pump

i fill the filter with fuel and shake the shit out of it, and blow through backward only with a reduced pressure on the compressor
5 or 6 times is not unusual

this is a waste of time,not meaning to be rude ,i got sick of taking my tank off to do this ,it makes a lot more sense to gut the filter add a new tea bag filter to the bottom of the pump and fit an external for what its worth and the trouble you save its worth the $50 n work

[Maj]

I consider the flush of a filter a short term fix
gives you time to sort out a filter and pump , either good s/h like from someone thats done a turbo conversion
or from suppliers like listed above

but i have reservations about recommending an external filter conversion, too many things could go wrong for the guy without the mechanical experiance some of us have , all it takes is the wrong sort of fuel hose , or wrong size, stripped hose clamp, poorly placed filter, kinked fuel line , burst original filter housing, an extremely hot day and your potentially stuck on the side of the road and at worst on fire
modifying like that can even affected resale many buyers keep away from bikes with aftermarket items fitted and would not touch something cobbled up in the back yard,

[revhead]

considering im a mechanic and own a mechanical business id say doing a mod like this is the only way to rid a great bike of a really bad design fault by suzuki, you have your own opinion about what will sell a bike ,i believe selling a bike with a bodgee,d up fuel filter is totally wrong ,i prefer to buy the bike with the mod ,knowing its done right, filter metal ,covered in heat proof wrapping bolted the the rear of the block below injectors works for ,me

i will say one thing about fuel hose ,new style fuels will melt and dissolve them , ibought 1 metre of ford hi pressure fuel line, pink it colour ,impervious, to solvent melting

[GRUNTMAX]

This has got big external fuel filters & when ya exhaust gas temperatures go haywire, ya just pull the injector to bits & lap the seats with Metalsol, then set ya seat blowoff pressure n bung em back in n Bob's ya uncle

Service Speed is over 16 knots.
600NM to the fishing grounds n Bob's ya uncle.

[crumpy]

i blew a lot of crap out of the top of the injectors and found that was the problem there is a small filter on each injector mines running great now just a thought

[Pommie]

I've just been through this with my K1.

You can get a new housing with inbuilt filter for about $260 from www.mrcycles.com (USA). From an Australian Suzuki dealer you're looking at $280 to $360.

Or you can follow the instruction on this link (which is what I did): http://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenanc...r-mod.html

Replacement socks are available on ebay. Or included with cheap pumps.

I elected to throw the pump in the bin and fit one from Hamilton Motorsports on ebay for about $80 delivered.

Get your injectors cleaned properly by someone with all of the right gear.

On the Gold Coast, you'll find Powerhouse Dynotuning. Steve and Blair know what they're doing and have all of the right gear in-house.

Having looked at the mod on the http://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenanc...r-mod.html I've noticed that the 'O' ring at the bottom of the outlet partially covers the actual outlet from the filter housing. Surely thats a crap idea too, and when drilling the new hole do you drill to the inside of the 'O' ring. The instructions would appear to have the new outlet hole directly under it. Is that where you put yours, I'm thinking of going a little further towards the centre.

Luckily I have an old spare that I've chopped up to see what goes on inside

I will be going to Blair to get the injectors cleaned as he's helped me out before. A top guy

[playswithnitro]

G'day Pommie,

I followed his drilling position and angle as closely as I could. Not having a filter housing that I could cut apart to confirm the correctness of his pics, I placed my faith in his accuracy and drilled through. I then flushed again, and again, and then again to get as much of the plastic out. If you check on the one you've cut apart, you'll see for yourself where it is best to drill.

If the o-ring is on the pressure (outlet) side of the pump, don't worry. The fuel is under pressure and will overcome any slight impediment to flow.

Yes, Blair is a good bloke. Knows the difference between crap and clay.
Check with him to see if he has an ultrasonic cleaner large enough to take the complete filter housing. Or if he knows of someone with one that will clean your housing. If it could be cleaned properly, that would be a viable alternative to the external filter arrangement. I tried to find a workshop with a suitably large ultrasonic cleaner in western Sydney but failed. I did think about buying my own.

PS: While sorting mine out, Dyno Dave (Sydney Dyno) cleaned my fuel regulator in his small ultrasonic cleaner. A lot of muddy crap came out of it. Check yours while you are at it.

The o-ring on the regulator is the same as the one on the bottom of the fuel pump where it slips onto the fuel outlet.