Blown Fuse - Instrument panel
#1
Folks,

Blown two 10 amp fuses for the instrument panel / indicators over the last two days. Fuses blew in dry weather so probably not moisture related. Bike is gen 2 K8.

Any ideas on a logical testing procedure (for a novice) to try to identify the cause prior to going the dealer would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Cheers
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#2
Hi

On the fuse is also to

Instrument panel
Front brake switch
Rear brake switch
Horn


Indicators get power via Engines Contact and the concomitant also power to the parking lights.


I hope you could help


Greeting Fester


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#3
(30-11-2012, 02:10pm)steventh Wrote: Folks,

Blown two 10 amp fuses for the instrument panel / indicators over the last two days. Fuses blew in dry weather so probably not moisture related. Bike is gen 2 K8.

Any ideas on a logical testing procedure (for a novice) to try to identify the cause prior to going the dealer would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Cheers

I had something similar yrs ago on another Suzuki and found the power wire worn through the insulation and was touching the frame on the steering colum whenever I turned the handlebar slightly, not sure if it's the same problem but hope this helps, Chris

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#4
There was a recall on the ignition wire routing on the early K8
you know if it was done ?
[Image: b76e01eb-552d-45d5-97df-028004b674c3_zps59f1c171.jpg]

Busa's yeah i guess i like them I've owned a few Pi_tongue
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#5
I checked when the altrantors were refitted, mine was OK.

Cheers
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#6
Had three weeks of wasy riding after stripping and checking all the wiring in front of the fuel tank then the dash blew again.

Tested the amps and it showed 17 on my meter.

Q1. Anyone got any idea what would be sending this sort of current through to the dash.

Q2. Anyone know if it is possible to repair the dash (so the fuses are there for a reason).

Thanks in advance

Cheers
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#7
Disconnect all the below first & try it, then add one back at a time till it blows again try them out as you go, brakes horn etc

Front brake switch
Rear brake switch
Horn
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#8
check for a bad earth. If you have a bad earth it can act like a resistor, allowing the current to pass but drawing a lot more than a fuse would normally convey. I have no idea where the earths run but they should be easily identified by looking for where wires are screwed to the frame. Check your plugs and sockets first though, seperate them and reconnect them several times. I spray a little WD40 into mine if I have them apart.

In the old days all wiring was high grade copper and connections were brass or copper. Who knows what metallurgy they use now. Electronics is a hobbie of mine, I'm an amateur radio operator.

Read this one:
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/archive/i...21278.html

Quote:Bad grounds won't cause a fuse to blow unless the ground is touching a 12v+ source.

Dead wrong.

If the ground side of ANY circuit has built up resistance (Corrosion, Paint, Loose connections), amperage is increased across the circuit.

In my professional experience, blown fuses are 40% bad grounds, 40% dead shorts and the rest a mixed up combination of components being overamperage and user error.

Offer an opinion, which is what i did, but dont correct someone unless your certain you are correct.
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#9
Update on fuse problem which is now fixed. And a lesson for the inexperienced ie dont assume anything and always start with the simplest first (no matter how unlikely you believe it is).

After stripping wiring harnesses to inspect each wire, checking all wire terminals, trying a new dash and removing handle bar controls the problem kept getting worse.

Eventually took it to the dealers who after three hours discovered the fault was a cracked wire to the brake light at the rear of the bike which earthed on bumps!

I didnt bother looking at the rear because nothing moves back there and no heat etc to cause the insulation to crack or wires to bounce around.....

Cheers
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#10
Glad you got it worked out, what a bitch hey.
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#11
Would never happen to a Gen 1 rear. It's because these Gen 2 rears are so big and ugly!
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#12
(03-07-2013, 10:48pm)gringo Wrote: Glad you got it worked out, what a bitch hey.

Thanks- its a relief to be able to died without carrying several fuses in my pocket.

Cheers
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#13
(03-07-2013, 11:46pm)pan Wrote: Would never happen to a Gen 1 rear. It's because these Gen 2 rears are so big and ugly!

You should know because you are always behind one Boobies4 Boobies4 Hair dryer girl Biker
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#14
(04-07-2013, 04:54pm)simmo Wrote:
(03-07-2013, 11:46pm)pan Wrote: Would never happen to a Gen 1 rear. It's because these Gen 2 rears are so big and ugly!

You should know because you are always behind one Boobies4 Boobies4 Hair dryer girl Biker
Is that because the GenII has and extra 19HP?
or titanium valves, saving 14.1 g?
or pistons made lighter by 1.4 g
or the reed valves added to the crankcase breather system as a way of avoiding power loss?
or the Tokico radial brake calipers, allowing smaller discs and therefore lower unsprung weight, translating into superior handling and Increased front braking power?

Or all of the above :)
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#15
Hmmm this has got me thinking.blew the ignition fuse last week. have ridden 1000 km since. no issues.considering my bike is only 8 months old I hope the wiring is good.have ridden it 17 k km though. Maybe wait and see if it blows again before trying to find the issue.
Don't tempt fate,TAUNT IT!

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