High pitched noise in fuel tank

[revhead]

mate i gotta say that in fitting DJs motor to my bike bc the last motor had more problems then a worn out pro.it had a blocked filter and would not pull past 7k i wasnt spending 400 buck on a filter after just spend 3k everything i had in the bank at the time to get my busa going again,the simple fix is to reverse blow flush it
i saw a shit load of what i would call mud come out of my filter ,and its been 9 weeks and the motor has never run better ,imo, its your own choice blow 400 bucks when u havent got it ,or spend a couple of hours and blow it out the filter is that dence and that big ,i cant see it causing harm to a motor


also using carb cleaner is prob better bc it wont melt or burn the inside of the filter

That's what I recon.my fuel pump is quiet has.When it starts making that loud noise again,might think about a new one.
Thinking about one of those gauze filters.Was going to go down to bursons.to by some and make one,would save trouble now.The only thing,it's abit tight going in.might have to twist it one side.cheers

Took bike for a good run.Back to new.full power.Front wheel comes up easier.The power drop sort of sneeks up on you.till it dies going over 7 or 8 thru gears.Like I don't blast around like a madman all the time,lol.

my bikes back to normal i can hold the front down on take off and spinn the back wheel in 3rd ,awesome stuff

[storm]

guys one thing about doing this.....it is just a temporary bandaid fix that has potential to lead to other problems later.

Can't vouch for Gen1 but you will never effectively clean out the filter on the GenII - it's simply not possible.
Inside the sealed canister is a heavy duty V-folded filter element about 3/4" thick....designed to trap particles and be thrown away when clogged!

A quick experiment of a similar process would be to take a filter element, pour used sump oil through it for 1 week..... then try to reverse flush it clean.
Yes you will be able to flush the bulk away but once the particles trap in the element....it's garbage....you will never clean it!

Doing the reverse flush process using chemicals will break down some of the sediment in the filter and if that starts to pass back through
the filter when running again..... that's headed straight to your injectors. Also you still have a constant increased load on your pump which does wear the internals
faster leading to other problems later from the metal particles reacting with the fuel - lab test results have proven that already.

You need the fuel to detonate and burn as clean as possible for best performance, and by choice ya'll are starting by running it through dirty old filters!

IMO this isn't a process to save money, as it has direct potential to cause problems later on in the engines life which would outweigh the savings of the temp fix.

Your bikes, your choice.... but please have a think about the pro's and cons of doing this.

so whats the permanent fix? new filter?
why is this not happening to other bikes like the gixxer or the bmw or cars as they use the same fuel?
cheers Maddy

---

Can someone post the steps to do this please?

Do you want a YouTube type of vid.Can pull pump out again.ran out of carb cleaner last night.probably more dirt in there.cheers.

nope actually steps
1)remove tank
2)do i have to disconnect anything?fuel lines?any tricks to this?
3)is the filter in the tank or outside? etc
cheers

[revhead]

guys one thing about doing this.....it is just a temporary bandaid fix that has potential to lead to other problems later.

Can't vouch for Gen1 but you will never effectively clean out the filter on the GenII - it's simply not possible.
Inside the sealed canister is a heavy duty V-folded filter element about 3/4" thick....designed to trap particles and be thrown away when clogged!

A quick experiment of a similar process would be to take a filter element, pour used sump oil through it for 1 week..... then try to reverse flush it clean.
Yes you will be able to flush the bulk away but once the particles trap in the element....it's garbage....you will never clean it!

Doing the reverse flush process using chemicals will break down some of the sediment in the filter and if that starts to pass back through
the filter when running again..... that's headed straight to your injectors. Also you still have a constant increased load on your pump which does wear the internals
faster leading to other problems later from the metal particles reacting with the fuel - lab test results have proven that already.

You need the fuel to detonate and burn as clean as possible for best performance, and by choice ya'll are starting by running it through dirty old filters!

IMO this isn't a process to save money, as it has direct potential to cause problems later on in the engines life which would outweigh the savings of the temp fix.

Your bikes, your choice.... but please have a think about the pro's and cons of doing this.

so whats the permanent fix? new filter?
why is this not happening to other bikes like the gixxer or the bmw or cars as they use the same fuel?
cheers Maddy

---

Can someone post the steps to do this please?

Do you want a YouTube type of vid.Can pull pump out again.ran out of carb cleaner last night.probably more dirt in there.cheers.

nope actually steps
1)remove tank
2)do i have to disconnect anything?fuel lines?any tricks to this?
3)is the filter in the tank or outside? etc
cheers

1 drain fuel from tank
2 remove seat
3 lift tank disconnect fuel line and fuel sender pump wires
4 lower tank unbolt n remove tank from bike,only undo the 2x 12mill bolts to the frame ,leave the 4x 10 mil bolts alone
5 place tank on soft surface upside down ,getallen key undo bolts holding in fuel pump
6 lift sender pump assembly from tank being careful not to bend fuel float
7 remove fitler from pump assembly 8 spray with carby cleaner ,then use compressed air the blow backwards back flush etc while doing this wrap white cloth around fitler as shit will go everywere
8 follow steps in reverse to re-assemble
good luck

[BikerBoy]

so whats the permanent fix? new filter?
why is this not happening to other bikes like the gixxer or the bmw or cars as they use the same fuel?
cheers Maddy

---

There is no "permanent" fix mate. A fuel filter is a serviceable item. You use them, they clogg up, you replace them. Nature of the beast.
No different to your oil filter.

It happens to every single vehicle that runs on petrol. Gixxers, BMW's, Cars,...you name it...they all have a fuel filter and they all get replaced. Some designs last longer, some clogg faster, there is oem ones, there is aftermarket ones.....they all do the same thing, they are not suppossed to be re-usable, unless you mod your system and pay the bucks for one that can specificaly be cleaned out and is designed to do so.

[revhead]

look without starting a shit fight most fuel filters are between 10 bucks to 100 buck ,but in the case of a k1 to k7 busa there almost 400 bucks so anything to save money ,is a win , and you had bills to pay youd buy a new filter before your bills ,a lot of people on here dont have cash to burn so no matter how hard you tell people to replace ,replace , theres people like me on here whom work for themselves or are on the minumin wage who cant afford a fitler worth 400 bucks after buying the bike bc the last owner didnt have the cash to replace the filter or took his mechanics advice to sell it and let the sucker who buys it to foot that bill.

[BikerBoy]

huh? you are totaly reading me all wrong Pete!

You can do whatever to your bike you like, doesn't bother me at all. If you want to save some money and do a temp fix...go for it. If you read back though this exact thread...I did the same at first! I am not against you doing that in the slightest!! But I will not for a second go telling people that cleaning out their fuel filters is the best way to go about things and start a trend of that's what is an ideal choice to be doing.....it simply isn't. It is not the best option for the Busa!!
and that's the only advice I will give......what should be done!! If you can't afford that and find an alternative, your call, your savings, your choice, not critisizing that.

A lot of people on here DO have cash to burn...and are buying aftermarket parts left right centre, doing track days, doing tours, buying turbo's, building second bikes, have 5 bikes, custom paint jobs, carbon wheels, you name it......no I will not tell them spray brake cleaner into you fuel filter to save a few hundred bucks.

Let it be known that I myself get my filters from Ebay from wrecked bikes being parted out.....bought one last week...complete system, pump, filters, floats etc...for $250 with only 1700k's of use, my last one for a complete system only cost me $160 and I've almost done 30,000k's on that!.

So friggin over this thread now, I will not post any more comments toward it.....feel like I completely wasted my time giving everyone the lab results of the filters that I had independantly tested and showed people what the fuel is doing to their bike on the chemical level. The results speak for themselves.

[revhead]

huh? you are totaly reading me all wrong Pete!

You can do whatever to your bike you like, doesn't bother me at all. If you want to save some money and do a temp fix...go for it. If you read back though this exact thread...I did the same at first! I am not against you doing that in the slightest!! But I will not for a second go telling people that cleaning out their fuel filters is the best way to go about things and start a trend of that's what is an ideal choice to be doing.....it simply isn't. It is not the best option for the Busa!!
and that's the only advice I will give......what should be done!! If you can't afford that and find an alternative, your call, your savings, your choice, not critisizing that.

A lot of people on here DO have cash to burn...and are buying aftermarket parts left right centre, doing track days, doing tours, buying turbo's, building second bikes, have 5 bikes, custom paint jobs, carbon wheels, you name it......no I will not tell them spray brake cleaner into you fuel filter to save a few hundred bucks.

Let it be known that I myself get my filters from Ebay from wrecked bikes being parted out.....bought one last week...complete system, pump, filters, floats etc...for $250 with only 1700k's of use, my last one for a complete system only cost me $160 and I've almost done 30,000k's on that!.

So friggin over this thread now, I will not post any more comments toward it.....feel like I completely wasted my time giving everyone the lab results of the filters that I had independantly tested and showed people what the fuel is doing to their bike on the chemical level. The results speak for themselves.

il follow you to ebay to look for the fuel systems best idea ive heard of good job bloke

sorry for my bickering ,my old man use to call me dog matic ,cheers again sorry bout that!

[storm]

Is there any aftermarket filter available?Or do we need to use OE filter?I have 12k kms on the bike already and plan to out another 20k this year so for faultless running I don't care about spending a few $100.

[storm]

guys one thing about doing this.....it is just a temporary bandaid fix that has potential to lead to other problems later.

Can't vouch for Gen1 but you will never effectively clean out the filter on the GenII - it's simply not possible.
Inside the sealed canister is a heavy duty V-folded filter element about 3/4" thick....designed to trap particles and be thrown away when clogged!

A quick experiment of a similar process would be to take a filter element, pour used sump oil through it for 1 week..... then try to reverse flush it clean.
Yes you will be able to flush the bulk away but once the particles trap in the element....it's garbage....you will never clean it!

Doing the reverse flush process using chemicals will break down some of the sediment in the filter and if that starts to pass back through
the filter when running again..... that's headed straight to your injectors. Also you still have a constant increased load on your pump which does wear the internals
faster leading to other problems later from the metal particles reacting with the fuel - lab test results have proven that already.

You need the fuel to detonate and burn as clean as possible for best performance, and by choice ya'll are starting by running it through dirty old filters!

IMO this isn't a process to save money, as it has direct potential to cause problems later on in the engines life which would outweigh the savings of the temp fix.

Your bikes, your choice.... but please have a think about the pro's and cons of doing this.

so whats the permanent fix? new filter?
why is this not happening to other bikes like the gixxer or the bmw or cars as they use the same fuel?
cheers Maddy

---

Can someone post the steps to do this please?

Do you want a YouTube type of vid.Can pull pump out again.ran out of carb cleaner last night.probably more dirt in there.cheers.

nope actually steps
1)remove tank
2)do i have to disconnect anything?fuel lines?any tricks to this?
3)is the filter in the tank or outside? etc
cheers

1 drain fuel from tank
2 remove seat
3 lift tank disconnect fuel line and fuel sender pump wires
4 lower tank unbolt n remove tank from bike,only undo the 2x 12mill bolts to the frame ,leave the 4x 10 mil bolts alone
5 place tank on soft surface upside down ,getallen key undo bolts holding in fuel pump
6 lift sender pump assembly from tank being careful not to bend fuel float
7 remove fitler from pump assembly 8 spray with carby cleaner ,then use compressed air the blow backwards back flush etc while doing this wrap white cloth around fitler as shit will go everywere
8 follow steps in reverse to re-assemble
good luck

Thanks grant.that's great instructions.

[revhead]

Those instructions were posted by me lol

[storm]

Those instructions were posted by me lol

---

Thanks revhead.lol

[President]

Many months have passed since I first raised this as an issue and some controversy over how to rectify it. Thanks to all who contributed to the discussion. I replaced both the tea-bag looking filter for $70 and the big plastic one the pump fits into for $375. And the high pitched noise is gone. Bike suddenly feels like its gained more horsepower as it probably lost some bit by bit without it being noticeable. I still have the spare aftermarket pump I bought new from the states for $58 and my mechanic tested it and said it works fine. Good to have it as a spare. At least we all know now what to do now. Thanks again everyone.

[storm]

nope actually steps
1)remove tank
2)do i have to disconnect anything?fuel lines?any tricks to this?
3)is the filter in the tank or outside? etc
cheers


[/quote]
1 drain fuel from tank
2 remove seat
3 lift tank disconnect fuel line and fuel sender pump wires
4 lower tank unbolt n remove tank from bike,only undo the 2x 12mill bolts to the frame ,leave the 4x 10 mil bolts alone
5 place tank on soft surface upside down ,getallen key undo bolts holding in fuel pump
6 lift sender pump assembly from tank being careful not to bend fuel float
7 remove fitler from pump assembly 8 spray with carby cleaner ,then use compressed air the blow backwards back flush etc while doing this wrap white cloth around fitler as shit will go everywere
8 follow steps in reverse to re-assemble
good luck

[/quote]

REMOVED THE FUEL Filter from tank today, the whole goddamn unit is sealed.could nt see any friggin teabag filter.
so ended up pulling of a plastic cap that has a jet like fitting to enable fuel to go into the pump,poured injector cleaner into filter outlet and flushing it in reverse so compressed air came out of pump inlet-voila whining noise gone. maybe next 35k kms no issues if not new fuel pump assemble is the way to go i recon ,its too much dicking about opening the assembly i guess.

---

nope actually steps
1)remove tank
2)do i have to disconnect anything?fuel lines?any tricks to this?
3)is the filter in the tank or outside? etc
cheers


[/quote]
1 drain fuel from tank
2 remove seat
3 lift tank disconnect fuel line and fuel sender pump wires
4 lower tank unbolt n remove tank from bike,only undo the 2x 12mill bolts to the frame ,leave the 4x 10 mil bolts alone
5 place tank on soft surface upside down ,getallen key undo bolts holding in fuel pump
6 lift sender pump assembly from tank being careful not to bend fuel float
7 remove fitler from pump assembly 8 spray with carby cleaner ,then use compressed air the blow backwards back flush etc while doing this wrap white cloth around fitler as shit will go everywere
8 follow steps in reverse to re-assemble
good luck

[/quote]

REMOVED THE FUEL Filter from tank today, the whole goddamn unit is sealed.
so ended up pulling of a plastic cap that has a jet like fitting to enable fuel to go into the pump,poured injector cleaner into filter outlet and flushing it in reverse so compressed air came out of pump inlet-voila whining noise gone. maybe next 35k kms no issues if not new fuel pump assemble is the way to go i recon ,its too much dicking about opening the assembly i guess.

[Ward P]

[shorty]

Can't you just take the fuel line off the injector line & blow air up it then drain the remainder of the tank?

Sorry.... Just thinking lazy..