12K Maintenence DIY or NO

[sutur]

Just my 2 bobs worth, done hundreds of oil/filter changes. On standard filters with no hex nut on them i hammer a medium phillips screw driver right through the filter body about 75mm out from the engine. Undo the filter so as the holes in the filter are now straight up and down, remove the screwdriver and allow filter to drain. Then install a smaller screw driver to continue loosening the filter. I only ever tighten a filter by hand. The hex nut on filters should only be used for undoing filters. On a recent ride to cairns a mates k/n filter developed a leak where the hex is swaged into the filter body. Turns out he fitted the filter with a ring spanner and weakened the filter body. Oil everywhere, he was lucky not to throw it down the road. Works for me, Paul.

That sounds like a bulletproof idea, especially when you don't have the tools to remove the filter. I mean you're throwing it out anyway, why not?

Just one thing, if you apply so much force to the sides of the filter that you can hammer a phillips screwdriver right through it, doesn't that put strain on the threads? Might you face trouble when you're installing the replacement filter?

---

Agreed... Only use the hex to undo. As per the manual it specifically states to do it up hand tight. From memory the instructions are to loosely tighten filter hits the o-ring and becomes tight and then turn 2 to 2 1/2 turns by hand.

Quoted correctly, having just read it

[cyndemgum]

Agreed... Only use the hex to undo. As per the manual it specifically states to do it up hand tight. From memory the instructions are to loosely tighten filter hits the o-ring and becomes tight and then turn 2 to 2 1/2 turns by hand.

yeh mate even if you only do them up one and a half turns after the initial contact of the seal, it still takes more than bare hands to undo them.

[RyanG]

Agreed... Only use the hex to undo. As per the manual it specifically states to do it up hand tight. From memory the instructions are to loosely tighten filter hits the o-ring and becomes tight and then turn 2 to 2 1/2 turns by hand.

yeh mate even if you only do them up one and a half turns after the initial contact of the seal, it still takes more than bare hands to undo them.

Yeah that's what I was trying to get across

[cyndemgum]

Just my 2 bobs worth, done hundreds of oil/filter changes. On standard filters with no hex nut on them i hammer a medium phillips screw driver right through the filter body about 75mm out from the engine. Undo the filter so as the holes in the filter are now straight up and down, remove the screwdriver and allow filter to drain. Then install a smaller screw driver to continue loosening the filter. I only ever tighten a filter by hand. The hex nut on filters should only be used for undoing filters. On a recent ride to cairns a mates k/n filter developed a leak where the hex is swaged into the filter body. Turns out he fitted the filter with a ring spanner and weakened the filter body. Oil everywhere, he was lucky not to throw it down the road. Works for me, Paul.

That sounds like a bulletproof idea, especially when you don't have the tools to remove the filter. I mean you're throwing it out anyway, why not?

Just one thing, if you apply so much force to the sides of the filter that you can hammer a phillips screwdriver right through it, doesn't that put strain on the threads? Might you face trouble when you're installing the replacement filter?

---

Agreed... Only use the hex to undo. As per the manual it specifically states to do it up hand tight. From memory the instructions are to loosely tighten filter hits the o-ring and becomes tight and then turn 2 to 2 1/2 turns by hand.

Quoted correctly, having just read it

Completely safe driving the screwdriver through the filter, just make sure you go through out from the engine so as you have room to move and you clear the hollow threaded sleeve. I have cut down a srewdriver so as the shaft is about 130 mm long and sharpened the end like a centre punch but a standard tool works fine, Paul.

[Ward P]

Just my 2 bobs worth, done hundreds of oil/filter changes. On standard filters with no hex nut on them i hammer a medium phillips screw driver right through the filter body about 75mm out from the engine. Undo the filter so as the holes in the filter are now straight up and down, remove the screwdriver and allow filter to drain. Then install a smaller screw driver to continue loosening the filter. I only ever tighten a filter by hand. The hex nut on filters should only be used for undoing filters. On a recent ride to cairns a mates k/n filter developed a leak where the hex is swaged into the filter body. Turns out he fitted the filter with a ring spanner and weakened the filter body. Oil everywhere, he was lucky not to throw it down the road. Works for me, Paul.

Haven't seen the gen2 setup, but if I cant get onto a tight filter this is what I do. & I never change the oil without changing the filter. cheap insurance I reckon.

[Landmine]

I would not be happy piecing the filter may allow filtered crap to pass back in to the oil passage.
The correct tool for removing the filter is not expensive so best to obtain and use it. E-bay is your friend for these tools.
I always change the filter when changing the oil would prefer to slip an oil change then slip changing the filter at oil change.
$200 for a warranty service is cheap insurance if you are short of cash.
Iridium plugs mine are still working at 42K will change at 48k. I have checked valve clearance and is in limits so have not adjusted since 24K.
Filter and oil can be changed by splitting the lower fairing only.
Air filter OEM dislike cleaning filters 24K max, you wont tell the difference road riding.
Although this is a high tech machine it is very robust in normal road use.
This is just my opinion.
I what prefer to spend on riding than over servicing.

[cyndemgum]

No, contamination is not a problem as oil continues to flow out of the oil filter mount after the filter is removed. Paul.