Bike won't start without bump / push start ????

[tenacious]

Hey all,
Was riding out to uni yesterday when I pulled up at a set of lights. There's a lot of roadworks going on in Canberra and at one particular part there is really dodgy set of makeshift lights where if you're the first one at the lights (as I was) the road surface is extremely uneven and it is difficult to hold the bike upright there. I found this out to my displeasure as I ended up dropping the bike. Anyway, the clutch lever snapped (again!), only this time the WHOLE lever snapped so I couldn't go anywhere for 3 hours until I got to the shop, bought another one and went back and fitted it to the bike.

Anyway, here's the problem. I fitted the lever and it operates fine. However, when I go to start the bike up in the normal fashion (engine on, clutch in, press starter) the bike WILL NOT START. It also won't change gears at this point to try and start it in first either. However, I CAN bump start it, then everything works fine - the bike changes gears as per normal, and everything is fine. However, obviously I'd prefer to have the bike starting as it normally should.

So, my question is basically what's going on, and does anyone know how I can fix this problem. Has anyone had this problem before, and how to I avoid it in future (other than by not dropping the bike lol).

I'll be heading for QLD in two and a bit days time, and I would prefer a bike I don't have to bump start everytime I fil up for fuel , so if anyone can help me to try and solve this problem A.S.A.P it would be much appreciated.

Thanks guys.

Paul (tenacious) <i></i>

[BUSGO]

Paul,
There is an engine cutout switch on the clutch lever assembly.
You may have damaged this as well when the bike fell.

Another thing -- If you have a 99 busa that has been over on its side, you have to drain the oil strainer pipe.
You will find it above your gear lever on the left side of the engine just behind the edge of the fairing. It is a rubber hose and has a plug in the end of it that you can pull off to drain the overflow from the gearbox and airbox.

Rgds BUSGO

"TAKE MY ADVICE"
I'm not using it anyway!<i>Edited by: BUSGO at: 24/1/07 7:39
</i>

[Turtle]

That switch can be a pain, mine would give trouble with it set on 4 on the lever adjustment. I would look at it first.
‘Slow & steady wins the race….. but it’s a lot easier on a Busa!’
Turtle
<i></i>

[kev11e]

G'day
Is there not also a tip-over cutout switch? Could have stuck?
Need to check manual...
Regards
kevin <i></i>

[Heidi1]

Or, if it is a non-standard lever, the connector may be filed shorter than stock. An place to start would be to put your entire weight behind it and pull the lever in HARD then try to start the engine. <i></i>

[pan]

If you look at your clutch lever, there's a little black box behind it. That's probably the problem (the switch the others mentioned). Take the lever off, put your finger in and you'll find a little button/knob about 2mm think. The clutch lever is meant to press on this. If you press it in and you engine starter works properly, then it possibly the lever you bought. Some after-market levers have this problem.
"sometimes crime does pay"<i></i>

[Heidi1]

You put that MUCH better than I did Pan, is it your edumacation? <i></i>

[rev 01]

After market levers........been there done that.

You can use the actual after market "lever" but you will need to re fit the OEM safety switch actuation part of your old lever "assembly" to make it work properly.

The dodgy part on the after market "assembly" doesn't push far enough to activate the safety switch
& complete the circuit to the starter & engage it.

I'm not saying the after market's are all like that but the one I used was & I've heard of plenty of others. <i></i>

[Heidi1]

That's what happened to me. Simple solution once you work out what the problem is. <i></i>

[Volvi]

so far my Macabusa carbon look levers havent caused that problem, so his ones seem ok. $30 a pair I think. <i></i>

[RaZ80]

Dude, had the same issue as you (Like the very same in the very same way) in short its like everyone has said - the kill switch ;)

hard wire it ;) "Busa riders always count in three's.... 100, 200, 300"

<i></i>

[tenacious]

Hey guys thanks for the info it was a great help.

You were all correct it was the pin / plug not touching the engine start up switch, so with "a bit" of help from my old man (nee "a lot" of help lol) I was able to fix the problem. In fact, we were to bypass that particular switch so now I can start the bike just with the button, rather than having to hold in the clutch lever as well.

So it's all good now - I probably won't be on the board for three weeks, so the next time I talk to you guys may very well be Jindabyne.

Thanks Paul. <i></i>

[Maj750t]

Clutch switch permantly on will give you a permanant low rev limit and "safe " mapping
Fix it the way its supposed to be and it will act accordingly <i></i>

[Busdriver]

Be careful of by-passing the clutch lever switch, especially if you sometimes park it in gear.

Years ago I had a mate who did this on his kawasaki (no not me). One day after work he came out to his bike, cooly pulled on the choke, hit the starter button and his bike roared into life, and then procceed off through the carpark without him on it. It got about 50 meters before unceremoniously falling on it's side.

Might pay to sit on the bike, holding it up and test whether the side stand switch would prevent this from happening on your bus.

Regards,

Busdriver <i></i>

[rev 01]

Maj is correct, that switch serves two important functions.

With the clutch in & switch made, the max rev limit is further reduced from the normal limit of around 10,600 or there abouts to something like 10200. This helps to slow & protect the engine from over rev damage should you miss a gear with wide open throttle & clutch lever in. I think they call it the first limiter.

By passing the switch by connecting the two wires together activates the first limiter. <i></i>