spongy crap Gen1 brakes

[Volvi]

Ok Im no newbie to busas. But my brakes got me tricked. Bled them not once not twice and still spongy shit brakes. I know gen1 are not renowned for their brakes but this is frakkin bad. I have braided HEL lines both down from the master making it a double banjo from the master which I have never been to thrilled about. Was only a couple years ago that I overhauled the calipers and master cylinder with new rubbers. I have a feeling its the master cylinder coz the lever isnt returning well after each bleed. So besides telling me rip out all the busa shit and replace with expensive Brembo, what else should I be doing? My 22yo CBR brakes are 10 times better then the crap on the bus....and my rears squeek too no matter what I do.

PS. I have cracked the banjos for any air before bleeding calipers.

[pan]

Hi Volvi. May be cheaper to buy a complete Gen 2 front end and replace it. You get radial brakes + new forks, etc...

Alternatively, I have master cylinder, calipers and OEM lines (complete and in 1 piece) that you can have cheap. They work great...! Came off a 99 Copper with 40K on the clock...

[Greeny_SA]

Bin the crappy Master cylinder & replace it with a Brembo ,as a starting point ,Before you worry about calipers . Thats where my greatest improvement came from .

[CeeJay07]

Cable tie the lever in to the handle bar overnight then bleed again.

[bazman]

CeeJay....I've used that neat little trick on many an occasion....it works well, even when ya don't bleed them afterwards!!!

[ohzone]

Another trick is that the Banjo fitting sits higher than the (fluid port?) in the reservior, try removing the bolts that mount the reservior in place, position the assembly with the brake lever pointing upwards so that there is a clear upward path for any air bubbles to rise in the lines, thru the banjo fitting and into the reservior, leave in this position over night.
Make sure the reservior lid is screwed on tight or there will be fluid spilt everywhere.

[Skidmarx]

Another trick is that the Banjo fitting sits higher than the (fluid port?) in the reservior, try removing the bolts that mount the reservior in place, position the assembly with the brake lever pointing upwards so that there is a clear upward path for any air bubbles to rise in the lines, thru the banjo fitting and into the reservior, leave in this position over night.
Make sure the reservior lid is screwed on tight or there will be fluid spilt everywhere.

have had the same problem on a few bikes, and this always does the trick for me

[Volvi]

Another trick is that the Banjo fitting sits higher than the (fluid port?) in the reservior, try removing the bolts that mount the reservior in place, position the assembly with the brake lever pointing upwards so that there is a clear upward path for any air bubbles to rise in the lines, thru the banjo fitting and into the reservior, leave in this position over night.
Make sure the reservior lid is screwed on tight or there will be fluid spilt everywhere.

have had the same problem on a few bikes, and this always does the trick for me

thats something Ive never tried, good tip thx will give it a go.

[Shifu]

Another trick is that the Banjo fitting sits higher than the (fluid port?) in the reservior, try removing the bolts that mount the reservior in place, position the assembly with the brake lever pointing upwards so that there is a clear upward path for any air bubbles to rise in the lines, thru the banjo fitting and into the reservior, leave in this position over night.
Make sure the reservior lid is screwed on tight or there will be fluid spilt everywhere.

First sensible suggestion (apart of replacing the front end with gen2). When using double banjo bolt as you do you wil notice that the hoses are even highier than the outlet from master cylinder creating an air pocket there. Had the very same problem on my gen 2 when installed braided hoses and done just what Ohzone suggests here. Fixed the problem right away. Alternatively you can pump the lever hold it and loosen the banjo bolt to expell the air from there. Works too but it is very messy so I do not reccomend it

[Maj]

Alternatively you can pump the lever hold it and loosen the bango bolt to expell the air from there.

That would be my preferred option and know you have all the air out,
do this 6-7 times and you will have it air free up the top end then work on the lower brake bleeders .

put a rag under the fitting to minimise brake fluid contact with painted objects and wash the whole area after with warm soapy water to get rid of all brake fluid residue , ...

[Madmax]

Alternatively you can pump the lever hold it and loosen the bango bolt to expell the air from there.

That would be my preferred option and know you have all the air out,
do this 6-7 times and you will have it air free up the top end then work on the lower brake bleeders .

put a rag under the fitting to minimise brake fluid contact with painted objects and wash the whole area after with warm soapy water to get rid of all brake fluid residue , ...

After all is said your mster cylinder is 12 years old. Bin both and put decent Brembo clutch and master cylinders on. Then go looking for decent rotors, I presently have Brembo rotors on the front. Just marvelous, and they're stainless not iron so they'll last!

My 2 cents worth and I have the braking system to prove it!


Max

[aussiemonster]

I've got braided lines, EBC HH pads and Arashi (Galfer copy) wave disks on mine and they have definitely helped with lever feel. I also changed to Pazzo copy levers and this helped with lever feel as well. The levers feel stiffer and are chunkier than the standard levers, so feel more solid.

The brakes are now adequate and feel safe, if you want great, then you'll probably need to change the whole system.

[Aussie Steve]

It is a sad state of affairs when Suckzuki's flagship has the brakes of a postie bike. I just fitted new OEM pads to the rear and they squeal a bit but I am expecting that to settle. But my fronts are very soft at the lever...no feel really.