OK, I seam to be having a little trouble here.
I have just draied the clutch fuil out (by acident)
I have filled the master cylinder back up, pulled the lever in and out a few times then unscrewed the nipple a little untill there was no more air comong out then tightened it back up.
I have repeated this process a few more times untill all that was coming out was the fluid.
I have now gone through 3 master cylinders of fluid but still no clutch action. I can put my finger on the clutch shaft and feel no movement at all.
I must be doing something wrong here, can anyone point me in the right direction as this is how I bleed car breaks and it works for them.
Any infomation greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. <i></i>
Check out Volvi's post
.....you're not the 1st if that helps <i></i>
my post was on front brakes only. since did the rear brakes was a breeze, havent done clutch yet, but that site above looks worth checking out. <i></i>
Thanks for the links.
I eventually got it sorted this morning.
It appears that when you are doing the clutch you think that you are getting all the air out of the line by loosing the bleed nipple and retightening it again untill you get the fluid coming out.
I found out this is not the case at all. It was somehow trapping the air in and the air was just going back and forward up the line.
After thinking about it for a while I decided to undo the banjo fitting near the nipple. Let some fluid run out then put my fingers over the banjo and pull the lever in a couple of times.
Take my fingers of and air comes out. Repeat the process untill only fluid comes out and put the banjo back on without loosing too much fluid. Then pull the lever in a couple of times to build up preasure then lossen of the nipple and retighten and then I had my clutch back. <i></i>
How the hell does someone 'accidentally' empty their clutch fluid? Look at what's involved. Accident? That's like accidentally kissing your wife's hot best friend when you trying to whisper into her ear down at the club (wasn't me, my mate...). You'd have to be an absolute idiot, honestly!
Anyway, today I accidently emptied my clutch fluid and the bleeding part was a total pain. I was at it for hours, before ringing the local car mechanic. The young lad there pointed me towards the bleed nipple on the clutch push rod bit, and once I was off the phone to him I had my clutch back in about 50 seconds.
So my tip is the banjo bolt thing is not the bleed nipple. Don't use 75% of your Motul $35 bottle of clutch fluid on that bit, because it won't work.
Yes, I'm an idiot, but next time I'll know better. For those too scared to touch their bike, this is one of about 100 mistakes I've made, but I'll tell you what, not only do you appreciate your bike much, much more, if something goes wrong you can fix it or at least limp back home. One minute I was asking how to remove fairings, the next I'm stripping it down to an engine and forks. Get in there elbow deep fellas, it's magic! <i></i>
The easiest way is to get a brake bleeding kit from either Repco or supercheap which consists of a length of clear tubing with a one way valve in the end - get yourself an old plastic bottle to catch the old fluid.
When you refill the resovoir and are pumping the lever you should only crack the nipple open as it will suck the air back in big time if it is open too far (learnt from experience!)
Then it is a simple matter of bleeding and tightening the nipple when you have a full lever.
The bleed kit is good as it saves your paintwork - brake fluid is worse than acid on any painted surfaces.
Ruffy
<i></i>
I'm with Ruffred on this. The kits are cheap, the bottle usually has a magnet so you can set it at the right height, and with clear tubing, piece of piss.
Using the kit, I replaced all my lines, brakes and clutch, with no spills or problems. Finding a bit of steel for the magnet was the hardest bit! (forks).
Cheers <i></i>
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