NGK Iridium spark plugs

[Shifu]

Mark, you have hit the nail in the head hereIf the new spark plugs gave you more power or torque it does not mean that they are any better. It only means that you old ones were crap and weren't doing their job properly. Addition of Irridium (expensive metal from platinum family) in electrodes increses ONLY their service life as it is extremally resistant to erosion caused by high voltage electric arcing. That is why they are more expensive and I would be aware of cheap ones as much as $100 diamonds.

[Throwdown!]

...the only advantage is they last longer but the noly problem then is if u dont replace then regularly they can seize in the head.

Mark

Agree!

[Shifu]

...the only advantage is they last longer but the noly problem then is if u dont replace then regularly they can seize in the head.

Mark

Agree!

Have you heard of anti-seize compounds? That is what they are for - to stop seizing of parts exposed in high temperatures in service. Like a spark plugs or your header bolts...Changing a perfectly good sparkplugs just because they may seize in if left too long seems to be a bit of a waste. And where is a sheduled maintenance to get them checked every 12000 km

[GRUNTMAX]

.........and here's ya;
Supercharged Busa Plugs

http://www.apwonline.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=17667

& Amazon.com
Item Name:
CR10EIX NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs
Item #:
6482
Price/ea:
$7.05
Probably good for turbo as well, when boost is spooled up.

A subliminal message for the failed ex RAN Ship's Diver who became an insurance accessor

   

[Throwdown!]

Well that's worth a look.

[Skidmarx]

i havnt had my busa long enough to need plugs, but my R1 used to go through plugs pretty bad, used to kill one or 2 plugs about every 1500k's then she would missfire and id end up riding home on 2 or 3 cyls, put in a set of ngk iridiums in the next hotter heat range, didnt have a drama after that, its now done around 6000 hard k's with out a hint of drama, cant say i noticed a power or torque increase, but reliability definatly jumped up a few notches

[Landmine]

Still on original plugs at 31k

[drworm]

i havnt had my busa long enough to need plugs, but my R1 used to go through plugs pretty bad, used to kill one or 2 plugs about every 1500k's then she would missfire and id end up riding home on 2 or 3 cyls, put in a set of ngk iridiums in the next hotter heat range, didnt have a drama after that, its now done around 6000 hard k's with out a hint of drama, cant say i noticed a power or torque increase, but reliability definatly jumped up a few notches

It was the hotter heat range that fixed the problem, nothing to do with iridium. Sounds like it was running rich, and the hotter pug just masked the real cause of poor running. Has it been dyno'd before?

[Skidmarx]

i think it may have been running lean, bought the bike stock, was an 04 R1 with full yoshi system, race filter, stacks, and cams had been removed and degreed in a little different, then i fitted the pc3usb, ran ok with a generic base map until i could get it tuned, but was killing plugs, had it dyno'd (to what i think it quite good for a litre) 160.1rwhp, the hotter plugs definatly made it run smoother, even before going on the dyno

[Shifu]

i think it may have been running lean, bought the bike stock, was an 04 R1 with full yoshi system, race filter, stacks, and cams had been removed and degreed in a little different, then i fitted the pc3usb, ran ok with a generic base map until i could get it tuned, but was killing plugs, had it dyno'd (to what i think it quite good for a litre) 160.1rwhp, the hotter plugs definatly made it run smoother, even before going on the dyno

Drworm is right on the money here. If the hotter spark plug helped, it means you were running rich not lean. Lean usually increses the temperature (even to the point of melting the electrodes if not causing preignition) Hotter plug heats up to the highier temperature thus helping to burn off the gunk buildup from the unbured fuel. Did you had a look at the electrodes of these failed plugs? It could give you a clue to the situation right away.

[Skidmarx]

ya i did have a look, they looked "ok" very white with a tinge of yellow, electrodes werent burnt, my comment about thinking it was running lean was due to the condition of the plugs, iv never had much to do with working on bikes, but being a car mechanic, white plugs have always told me lean, dark/black plugs always tell me rich, it never smelt of fuel, blew no smoke

[Shifu]

ya i did have a look, they looked "ok" very white with a tinge of yellow, electrodes werent burnt, my comment about thinking it was running lean was due to the condition of the plugs, iv never had much to do with working on bikes, but being a car mechanic, white plugs have always told me lean, dark/black plugs always tell me rich, it never smelt of fuel, blew no smoke

That is a bit weird. You are right, the look you describe does indicate lean mixture - tad to lean. Going for even hotter plug should have made it worse. Considering that hotter plug improved the situation, could indicate that the high temperature look - whitish in colour, was caused by pre-ignition rather than lean mixture and the repeated shock waves were causing plug failures due to the cracking of the isolator. Hotter plug being able to absorb more heat was less prone to it (preignition) exending the life of the plug. Still a bit short from what you are saying. Normally they should last 25-30k without the problem. When something like you described happens it is always good to run some diagnostics as sometime things like that can indicate some other serious problems.
As far as the sparkplug "science" there is no difference really between the cars and bikes. Engine is an engine, so you can safely benefit from your experience with cars. I normally like my sparkplugs to be ligtly-brown gold in colour - getting hot enough to stay clean, but not hot enough to glow
The only difference are the two-strokes where the lean mixture can quickly lead to engine destruction due to lubrication problems.

[fasterfaster]

Current fuels due to their "cocktail" of additives no longer allows for accurate plug read as the burning of the additives contaminates the read. Each company adds it's on bevy of additives. Look at all the different fuel company trucks lined up .......................... at the same refinery.

[Skidmarx]

ya, i was just glad after the tune as it ran SOOOO much better, was a completly different bike and gained 7mph down the 1/4, with the older carby'ed bikes i always aimed for a slight "mocha" colored plug

and your right pete, iv read wright ups on some of the additives in fuel these days that they dont tell us about, its bloody shocking, i tend to stick with bp ultimate, and from only one servo in town, that way if something goes wrong fuel wise, i know exactly whos ass to kick

---

just on this note though, what do you guys recomend for plug gap??

[Shifu]

Current fuels due to their "cocktail" of additives no longer allows for accurate plug read as the burning of the additives contaminates the read. Each company adds it's on bevy of additives. Look at all the different fuel company trucks lined up .......................... at the same refinery.

Yeah, I see your point. Things used to be easy in the good'ol days. So what would you suggest Peter for the home garage mechanic? Is dyno the only reliable course of action?