Broken drive blades

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I have a problem with my turbo (garrett T25/28) on my gixxer 750, and wondering if you guys could help me out with it.

The bike was running very well, with no problem at all. After a couple of 2nd and 3rd gear runs to about 8psi i rode for around 15 mins. Did a u-turn and a quarter throttle accelleration up to the speed limit when POOF - no boost, or only half to one psi. I rode home around 100 km and pulled the tupperware off and could not find any boost leaks etc.

Pulled the dump pipe off and found one blade on the drive side of the turbo had a large chip. (see pic of 1 blade broke)
   

i would have thought this would not be the problem, so i put all back together and took for a 15 minute ride to see if i could feel or hear any problems. only 1 to 2 psi of boost and then nothing - would not boost at all.

Pulled apart again, and all the blades on the drive side have been torn off. There are no blades left to drive the turbo. (see pic all blades broke)
   

My question is - could something have come from the motor to cause this to the first chip?

Could the first chip have caused the rest of them to dissintergrate?

The turbo was used, but recently serviced. Any help appreciated, wso it doesnt happen to the next turbo i get also.

[fasterfaster]

Jeeeeeeeeeeezus Paul, when you said a chip in the blade i didn't have a vision of half of the blade missing ?
The rest I'd say took place as a result of a flogging whilst being out of balance.
The first pic looks like it's picked up something .................. like a sparrow.

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Stripped a little further and took these photos. It looks like the free play is very excessive, so i would suggest the blades have hit the housing. Here are pics of the bare impella and the housing. Hard to tell if the marks on the housing are from the blades hitting it, or when they blew apart.

   

   

Would it be just the case of a worn out turbo? It was supposed the be a reco unit just before i bought it, but you never know do ya.!

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The first pic looks like it's picked up something .................. like a sparrow.

At least it is only the turbo - probably the cheapest part of the build. I will source another and fit up.

As i just wrote - the free play is way out, so i suggest the bearings have Shite, and hit the housing.. See pics above.

Whaddya rekon.. :)

[Maj]

ceramic wheel turbos are known to be fragile, and once the first chip came off it would have been out of balance,possably doing the rest of the damage,
damage could have been initiated well before you had it, only needs to be bumped during assembly of the exhaust housing and its a timebomb

look for a gt2554 or a t25g, usually ~$150 on ebay, just avoid anything that the nut on the exhaust wheel looks like yours

[Resn8]

I reckon you blew a turbo!

[Greeny_SA]

ceramic wheel turbos are known to be fragile, and once the first chip came off it would have been out of balance,possably doing the rest of the damage,
damage could have been initiated well before you had it, only needs to be bumped during assembly of the exhaust housing and its a timebomb

look for a gt2554 or a t25g, usually ~$150 on ebay, just avoid anything that the nut on the exhaust wheel looks like yours

How many RPM do they run at ? 20,000 + is it ?Not surprised they blow to bit's if out of balance .

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ceramic wheel turbos are known to be fragile, and once the first chip came off it would have been out of balance,possably doing the rest of the damage,
damage could have been initiated well before you had it, only needs to be bumped during assembly of the exhaust housing and its a timebomb

look for a gt2554 or a t25g, usually ~$150 on ebay, just avoid anything that the nut on the exhaust wheel looks like yours

do you have any suitable Greg? Can I still use my housings, as the ex has already been ported and the intake up-pipe the right angle!

[Maj]

ceramic wheel turbos are known to be fragile, and once the first chip came off it would have been out of balance,possably doing the rest of the damage,
damage could have been initiated well before you had it, only needs to be bumped during assembly of the exhaust housing and its a timebomb

look for a gt2554 or a t25g, usually ~$150 on ebay, just avoid anything that the nut on the exhaust wheel looks like yours

How many RPM do they run at ? 20,000 + is it ?Not surprised they blow to bit's if out of balance .

Try up to 120,000 on a little ceramic wheel turbo like that .

Paul its unlikely you would get a turbo that would allow you to use the current housings, but the gt25/t25/t28 range fitment will be very close .

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Thanks Greg. I bought that GT2560 that i sent you the link to. Just wait for it to show, and then make the new up-pipe and port the wastegate. :) Lets hope it is ok.

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Hey guys, i have fitted the T25G to the bike now, and is all running good. Is at 7psi currently, and much smoother and easier to ride. Greg, you mentioned about the oil supply restrictor that is in standard oil coolers. Mine is a 750 and has no external oil cooler. I have however a .040" oil restrictor in my -6AN oil feed line.

The Garrett website said to use this for all ball bearing turbo's and you can use on sleeve bearing turbo's if you have oil pressure bleed problems into the housings. My problem is that i have 400 series speedflow oil feed line, with the restrictor inserted. For me to remove the restrictor (or drill it out), i have to cut the line shorter - most likely requiring another oil feed line.

My question is will this cause any problems if i leave the restrictor in place..?

[Maj]

Its probably ok
you can pull the drain line and run the motor for up to a litre of oil before its getting dangerous
look to get about 3/4 litre/min or better
safer to test over 30 secs and double your results,
also your results will be low if only idling,oil pressure is scary low at idle bring the revs up a bit