Gen 2 Mesh Inserts
#1
Believe it or not one thing is simpler on the Gen 2 than the Gen 1 - that is installing mesh inserts (if you dont count the difficulty in removing the side fairings that is!).

Time required; 2 hrs (not inc curing time).

I used black Sikkflex adhesive / sealant because it was open and going off. $3 cartridges of Bostick silicone sealant usually do the job for me and can take the heat (I use it to hold the home made radiator protector on my Busa). Also experience of others is that glue applied by hot glue guns reaches melting temperature when riding so should not be used.

Read this thread with the original called "Fairing - Mesh Inserts" in the How to section for tools, tips and tricks and supplies.

Here is how they look;
   

Here are the templates to rough out the cut pieces. Make sure you print these as A4 pages with the correct scale (the straight line is 50mm long). The top vent template is for the RHS. I think I reversed the bottom vent template - no biggy, just print, cut it out of the paper and check which side. Minimal trimming is required if you use the templates. A small amount of the heat foam will need to be removed from the edges. Make sure the adhesive tape that holds the foam is also removed so that the fairing plastic is exposed.

For those too busy to read the original thread (which I recommend) make sure you have all the mesh pieces facing (orientated) the same way.

Templates.
   
   

Minimal bending is needed. The mesh can be flat in the aperture and only the edges bent and glued.

Here are pics of the gluing. I used garbage ties and skewers to fix the mesh in place while I glued and it cured - too easy!

Here gluing pics.
   
   
   

Here is skewer pic
   
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#2
very cool steve so sickaflex is the way to go ok cool well when i do mine i know

cheers mate
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#3
Hi Big Kev.

Sikkflex is good but overkill and as one person noted earlier it sick like shit to a blanket and to fingers and to tools etc etc. I usually use cheap Bostick silicone sealant that does the job and is easy to clean (it also holds my home made radiator screen on to the radiator so it can take the heat as well).

Cheers
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#4
(13-08-2009, 08:17pm)steventh Wrote: Hi Big Kev.

Sikkflex is good but overkill and as one person noted earlier it sick like shit to a blanket and to fingers and to tools etc etc. I usually use cheap Bostick silicone sealant that does the job and is easy to clean (it also holds my home made radiator screen on to the radiator so it can take the heat as well).

Cheers

yeah i was going to ask how it would go with heat see i was thinking i have a new plastic welder and i was going to do the mesh that way

plus i have to go and buy the mesh from supercheap so yes ok well i have both options now

thanks steve thats tops now i have a few more ideas

thanks big kev
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#5
That looks fantastic Steven! Can't wait to see it in real life.
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#6
Nice job, my next mod (will it ever end???)
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#7
i can honestly say no it will never end when it comes to mods mate im still going after 1 yr lol whats that tell ya
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#8
Saw it on a couple of Busas on my first ride. Looks good. Is it purely as cosmetic mod or is there some practical reason for it?
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#9
totally cosmetic but the bling factor makes it worth while mate
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#10
***
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#11
see now thats the info we all need top notch info
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#12
***
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#13
(14-08-2009, 12:11am)big kev Wrote: see now thats the info we all need top notch info

One good tip i no of someone that used a glue gun to stick in place Undecided
Not so good once motor heated up and melted glue again .
[Image: Resizeofbusa005.jpg] REGARDS ROD
MOBILE 0433 92 99 22
kangaroos1996@msn.com
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#14
rod guilty as charged mate theres a horrible mess inside the fairings on my busa
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#15
Rod, Kev,

Modified my post to include advice not to use hot glue guns - thanks for athe info.

Steven
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