Hair Dryers vs Overbore kits.

[kawasuki]

Graham I wish you would get that f*&^ing pumkin out of you ear. The 1464 kit appox 230+ the 1661 kit 285+. The 1464 is NOT a grenade motor, its a completly new block. You can spend a lot less for the 1661 but this dude has gone all the way with LBJ. def Cheers,
Kawasuki<i></i>

[1hotBUSA]

Ray,

I know what you are talking about. You lift the stock cylinder block off the motor, remove the pistons, add the new pistons, then bolt the new block on. But as a general desription you are overboring the motor, as you are going above the 1298cc that the stock motor puts out.

Nothing personal, I've always wanted a turbo, and I've heard lots of horror stories about big block/big bore applications. This could be due to the people who are fitting them talking short cuts or not doing what they are supposed to do. If I was going to go big block I would probably look at 1464cc or I would go a stroker kit since the turbo will give me the top end rush, and stroking the motor will give me torque down low where the turbo wont help.

Hope that has sufficiently drilled the pumpkin out. Otherwise there's always Militec Regards
Graham
1hotBUSA
2000 Suzuki Hayabusa Red/Grey Bog standard except for bling and a kanooter valve. Oh and a turbo kit on the floor.
Strike a blow for freedom...Smash a speed camera!!!
Red Bikes Rule!!!!!<i></i>

[pan]

Graham, Ray just called me and got me to change the lock on your locker at work...
"sometimes, crime does pay"

Customer Service & Complaints Division
Easyrider Imports
www.easyriderimports.com.au

<i></i>

[kawasuki]

2x 2x
2x 2x Cheers,
Kawasuki<i></i>

[1hotBUSA]

You're not going to be there much longer......go to the test forum. Rays taking the place back and I'm helping him
Regards
Graham
1hotBUSA
2000 Suzuki Hayabusa Red/Grey Bog standard except for bling and a kanooter valve. Oh and a turbo kit on the floor.
Strike a blow for freedom...Smash a speed camera!!!
Red Bikes Rule!!!!!<i></i>

[pan]

I just had some "associates" place a horse's head under Ray's blanket a while ago, so if he knows what's good for him, I'll still have a job on Monday...
"sometimes, crime does pay"

Customer Service & Complaints Division
Easyrider Imports
www.easyriderimports.com.au

<i></i>

[pan]

Sorry guys. We hijacked another thread.

Hayabusa, I have three questions:

1) do you know anywhere in Sydney/NSW you can get it for $1000?
2) with a log on name like Hayabusa, how come you are only a registered guest?
3) where are ya?
"sometimes, crime does pay"

Customer Service & Complaints Division
Easyrider Imports
www.easyriderimports.com.au

<i></i>

[simmo]

Dam missed the action
Pan nitrous is not real good for your motor, its like giving it a shot of caustic i believe, there are a couple of different types, its cheap way for a shot of quick power

Cheers Robert
World Wide CEO
Easyrider Imports
www.easyriderimports.com.au
<i></i>

[1hotBUSA]

Pan,

Really you need to get comfortable with the bike that you have got first before hitting it with a 40HP shot of NOS, or seeking any power improvements. Otherwise you are going to become a statistic. Come out on some rides with us, you'll soon find that the thing has plenty of get up and go. I've waited 18 months on mine deliberately so i can spend some time with the stock bike and decide what i really want to do.

Regards
Graham
1hotBUSA
2000 Suzuki Hayabusa Red/Grey Bog standard except for bling and a kanooter valve. Oh and a turbo kit on the floor.
Strike a blow for freedom...Smash a speed camera!!!
Red Bikes Rule!!!!!<i></i>

[hayabusa]

1) I sourced everything from the US for under $1000, It was around $800 in fact. You could probably get a good dry kit for $600-700.

2) I'm lazy

3) Melbourne

Nitrous isn't bad for your engine if it's done right. Progressive controllers can reduce the 'hit' and saves parts. I don't know why people continue to say nitrous is bad news, it's come a long way since your information was correct, 40 - 60 shots are a safe way for cheap 220hp, turbos have many problems with the same hp too, probably more problems. <i>Edited by: hayabusa&nbsp; at: 17/9/05 7:00 pm
</i>

[simmo]

Hayabusa what kind of system is yours, is it run off a power commanner or button ( air filter box or inlet injection )
What sort of cost is it to keep the gas up to and how often do you use it, whats a refill worth & how long dose it last.
Pan i'm willing to help you, its alway good to test on a Red one first,
better if you can get a Red Grey first they are the slowest of all the models

Cheers Robert
World Wide CEO
Easyrider Imports
www.easyriderimports.com.au
<i>Edited by: simmo at: 18/9/05 12:00 am
</i>

[pan]

Thanks for that. If you do know of anywhere I could get it done let me know.
Does "sourced everything from the US" mean that you installed and maintain it yourself? I wouldn't be able toso I need a good "nitro mechanic"
"sometimes, crime does pay"

Customer Service & Complaints Division
Easyrider Imports
www.easyriderimports.com.au

<i></i>

[hayabusa]

Yes, I installed it myself. I would hate to think of that cost. <i></i>

[hayabusa]

Simmo,

I have a PCII, I had one b4 the N2O so i didn't include that in the cost.

It is a NX wet system, 2# bottle, I drilled into the head to mount the nozzles but I have seen it in the box.

I use a window switch, fuel pressure switch, arm switch and full throttle switch.(the only one I manually activate is the arm switch.)

I fill the bottle myself from a 10# bottle from BOC, It works out around $25 a fill.

I get about four good hits from it. It doesn't sound like much but consider how many times you have been near 300kph, you only need it for when the road you are on can handle it.

I also use a purge solenoid for pure pose factor. <i>Edited by: hayabusa&nbsp; at: 18/9/05 12:26 am
</i>

[simmo]

Thanks what gear do you use it it, it would be a waste in lower ones wouldn't it.
Cheers Robert
World Wide CEO
Easyrider Imports
www.easyriderimports.com.au
<i></i>