Chain Adjustment

[TimF]

I normally get my Dad to do this for me, but his house currently has a foot of water in it (and rising rapidly) so that's not going to happen.

The axle nut on my K8 is supposed to be 100 nm according to the handbook.

My question is:
Am I going to have to go and buy a Torque wrench? Or can I safely do it up by hand and just stop when it feels right?

Guessing I'll need the torque wrench haha.

[Volvi]

ive never used the torque on the axle nut, just hand tighten with busas hand tool till im confident she aint going anywhere.

[Legend]

Firm, with a large ring spanner 36mm, usually about 18" long.

Leonard.

[Astro]

Now you're just boasting.....

[TimF]

Haha.

Thanks for the advice. I did what you said without any problems, but my paranoia got the best of me and I bought $33 torque wrench from super cheap. The kind with the hub that slips when you reach a preset torque. I'm sure it's not entirely accurate, but I doubt it needs to be either.

I read a web article that claims that the markings used to keep the sprockets aligned are notoriously inaccurate. Maybe next time I'll try the string method.

Thanks again,
Tim.

[Legend]

Now you're just boasting.....

I sometimes get carried away with the size of my tools !!!

Leonard.

[TheShredder]

You cant carry a torque wrench around with you on long trips.
If a factory tool is supplied in the kit you should feel safe in using it as thats what its supplied for.

shane

[Ward P]

Haha.

Thanks for the advice. I did what you said without any problems, but my paranoia got the best of me and I bought $33 torque wrench from super cheap. The kind with the hub that slips when you reach a preset torque. I'm sure it's not entirely accurate, but I doubt it needs to be either.

I read a web article that claims that the markings used to keep the sprockets aligned are notoriously inaccurate. Maybe next time I'll try the string method.

Thanks again,
Tim.

I've had the '99 since nearly new & always use the "markings" for alignment.
Hard cornering or at over 300kmph, always felt fine.
Every bike I've ever owned I've done with the markings, and never used a torque wrench for the back wheel, just used what come in the tool kit, as tight as I bloody can!!!

[Greeny_SA]

you would have to be superman to over tighten the axle nut with the tool
supplied with the bike. i could be wrong here but i only use a torque wrench
to stop me from overtightening nuts & stripping threads,not to check if it's
tight enough.(it always is)

[Rev004]

Well I've even seen the axle reversed so if for some reason the axle was to spin it would spin the axle nut tighter and not loose, I'm still not sure on this one but hey it makes the guy feel confident.

Me myself I just use a strong arm and make sure it's nice and firm.

[Slade]

whats the suggested length of time to be retentioning a chain on a k8/k9? 200/500/1000

Ive never had a bike stretch a chain like my new k9, although ive never really owned such a powerhouse.

[bear]

Most hand tools are designed to be the correct length to apply the correct torque (on average). Bin the torque wrench and use the one supplied. Make clicking noises if that gives you comfort!
As for alignments, the only problem with the small marks is that you have to be very careful. It doesn't take much difference at those scratch marks to make a big difference at the wheel edge. I thought I'd done mine pretty accurately, but felt that turning one way into a corner, was different that the other way. A check revealed a small error on my part which after a few attempts was spot on and the bike felt better. I'm going to make a pair of ally bars to duplicate the string method. The string method is OK, but hard to set up and hard to even up. On old bikes where the back and front tyres were the same section (yes I go back that far) it was dead easy because you couldn't set the strings up until it was aligned! But when done you had four points of contact both sides. Now you have to measure equal clearances to the front tyre...Good ol' days eh?

[BUSGO]

If any man alive can tighten the rear axle nut to 100NM with the tool supplied I'd be astonished.
I use the 18" ringy like Leonard.
Last thing you want on a fast bend is a loose rear wheel.

I check my chain on the Gen II, which is a longer lasting one than the Gen 1 one, every 1000k or so and it has only needed adjusting twice between tyre changes. Now done 21000k and still only adjusted it a very small amount 4 times.
The secret to long chain wear is constant lubrication.
Give it a squirt every 500k or so and clean it once a month.
It should last for quite a long time. Maybe even 50,000k if you don't ride like a banshee or punish it at the drags.

[bioDog]

Just buy a torque wrench and user it, good investment for $100

[Cam]

Use a good quality ring spanner. It's all I've ever used on any of my bikes. On a bike with a swingarm the size of the Busa's you'll be fine. On small bikes with a very light swingarm I tend to be a little careful not to go overboard but still, I've never chewed out bearings or had a nut come off.

I've only adjusted the chain twice on my Gen 1 in in 19,000km but the chain was new then & it is a DID.

I agree with Bugso, don't be shy with a top quality wax or oil as soon as it starts to look anywhere near shiny in the center or alternatively, at the end of any full daze ride.