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HI Guys,
Few Questions:
1. My bike now has morning hiccups, meaning it will run fine when hot but till the time it is hot there is lot of surge....there is no starting problems – it fires up well all the time.
2. It seems to have developed bit of roughness at ever RPM level. Its more Corse then usual.
About 200K back weeks back I had got complete tuning done with engine valve clearance checking, new plugs etc all the nine yards. Then at about 100K back there was a electrical fault apparently one of the socket had melted, the bike developed massive surge and lost around 50% of power. Upon correcting the same – it developed the above issues.
I have always used 98 Octane Petrol, Oil changed around every 3000K, Plugs at every 10000K since the ownership.
I am still thinking the above may be due to plugs gone bad due to the electrical fault before, but the mechanic never changed the plug as they were replaced just 100k back.
I need help with this as I am not enjoying my ride to work now as I am not feeling that my bike is comfortable.....  .
I need some exp member to test drive and recommend some help....(this is my wish
Cheers,
Bill
I had similar problems with my 99 model and found a battery with a smaller then required charge. I removed the battery and discharged it fully then trickle charged it to full charge again and cured it . Dont know if this is your problem but its a quick easy and cheap way to see if it cures your bike. My bike started first go but staggered on idle and often stalled , I checked plugs ,regulator all the obvious bits but found nothing other than a 3/4 charged battery . Hope this helps
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(09-06-2009, 10:01pm)Beanz Wrote: I had similar problems with my 99 model and found a battery with a smaller then required charge. I removed the battery and discharged it fully then trickle charged it to full charge again and cured it . Dont know if this is your problem but its a quick easy and cheap way to see if it cures your bike. My bike started first go but staggered on idle and often stalled , I checked plugs ,regulator all the obvious bits but found nothing other than a 3/4 charged battery . Hope this helps
Thank you for this,
I will discharge my battery this weekend and then get it charged again, just a question - to discharge is it ok if i just let the headlight on....or is there a different process
Cheers,
Bill
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You may have experienced a unique failure mode, but I,ve not heard of anyone having cycled a lead acid battery before and brought back a positive result. I have done it on large battery arrays during comissioning to make sure that they meet capacity specs. Other than that, constant float charge & ambient temp ensures longest life. Discharge, vibration etc all shorten life. These starting batteries are designed for high rate discharge ie motor starting & not for deep discharge cycling so be careful not to overdo the discharge. The weakest cell will collapse first so keep an eye on the voltage. Overdoing it will weaken or kill the battery. Cleaning the electrical terminals may have helped, I'm not being smart, just offering a possible suggestion.
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"par excellence"
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(10-06-2009, 03:58pm)Gnarbunkle99 Wrote: You may have experienced a unique failure mode, but I,ve not heard of anyone having cycled a lead acid battery before and brought back a positive result. I have done it on large battery arrays during comissioning to make sure that they meet capacity specs. Other than that, constant float charge & ambient temp ensures longest life. Discharge, vibration etc all shorten life. These starting batteries are designed for high rate discharge ie motor starting & not for deep discharge cycling so be careful not to overdo the discharge. The weakest cell will collapse first so keep an eye on the voltage. Overdoing it will weaken or kill the battery. Cleaning the electrical terminals may have helped, I'm not being smart, just offering a possible suggestion.
Thank you for the advice, my battery is brand new, will ask the dealer to discharge and recharge it.
Cheers,
Bill
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Have a read of this before doing any discharging, Leigh
http://xtronics.com/reference/batterap.htm
Getting ready to make some noise.
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15-06-2009, 10:40am
(This post was last modified: 15-06-2009, 10:41am by Bill Gaheer.)
Discharged the battery completely on Friday and then re-charged it (every thing by the book). problem remains.....:(
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G'day
Are there any fault codes displayed on the dash?
Regards
kevin
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Lately I've had a similar problem appear.
When I start in the morning, it fires up no problem. Idles at correct rpm. All is good.
If it stops for any reason, (today I didn't get the stand all the way up before putting into gear) then it's a bitch to restart. Just puffs over, won't fire. Fires for a few seconds & then dies again.
To keep it running I have to keep the rpm at about 3k until I start riding. After that it's fine.
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(17-06-2009, 07:00am)kev11e Wrote: G'day
Are there any fault codes displayed on the dash?
Regards
kevin
Hi Kevin,
Nope no codes, nothing - all clean but still a problem
Bill
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hi there - a complete discharge of a battery is going to shorten the life of the battery considerably ...
I have about 7 large capacity batteries ( 2 in 4x4 ) 2 in caravan 2 spare to run from solar panel - 1 for boat - most are deep cycle batteries - some gel others lead acid ( we camp away from civilization so need lots of batteries )
I have completely discharged batteries and then recharged them ( the deep cycle ones take about 1 - 2 days to recharge ) the ones that i have fully discharge only last maybe 1 - 2 years - the others 3 - 4 years and at about 300 - 500 each -- to expensive .... what i am getting at is this practice is not good for your battery at all - its not the same as your little batteries you have from your camera or phone ... cells can collapse - of they can become heavily fouled and then not accept charge
Boc
Hayabusa , If your not on one , your behind one .....
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