boost control and retard timming on boost
#1
Hi There
I am new to turbo busas
Mine boiled the water the other day and the motor has a mis under load.(I thought because to hot)
I currently have a power comander.
I had the bike on the dyno and it ran fine ,but in the real world under load it got hot,
I have managed to get the bike to run now on 10 pound boost at 240hp in 6th ,the temp guage is like half way and the dam thing still has a miss .(but not boiling)
my dyno guy wants to sell me hes own control that retards the timming on boost ,nitros ect ect.(total engine managment)
The prob is I am in newcastle and he is in sydney ,and he is the only one who no's about how to set it up.
My question is what are the guns running for engine managment ??
I have heard the pciii now has a hub you can buy that will plug into your existing power comander that can do this??
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#2
I was going to put back on an oil cooler to help with the cooling but Nearly everyone removes them is this because there is no room.
Or for better filteration thru the filter???
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#3
Hi Ash
What type of Turbo System are you running,? Does it use an FMU?
Is your motor all stock? You may have cooked it, blown a head gasket. They dont like extensive time on the dyno, require cooling off between runs.

What Power Commander are you using guessing its the new USB. By the time you buy evrything you need for the PC it gets up to the price of the more powerful piggybacks. mine had PC IIIr work fine on with an FMU.

Is it the TSI your Dyno guy is trying to sell you. The Borg Brothers use that on there 550HP Bike so its proven, whether it suits your setup thats another question.

With the Ghetto Kit the Oil Cooler was removed for space and simplicity, never had a problem running hot, pretty much run stock temperatures.
Shayne
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#4
Do you run two thermo fans?? If not fit a second one from a Gixxer 1000 and manually switch it.
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#5
I dont think I have blown a head gasket.
how muich is a tsi control?
my motor is from pete at petes pit stop (his personal bike)I think its running rougth for he has removed the water injection without(telling me)... remapping and there is no intercooler(mind you I dont think you guys run these)The motor has a plate and pistons, the pcIII I have is only for fuel nothing else.
With a turbo system when the engine is hot say above 90 deg does the motor start to miss on boost??
Biker
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#6
ashnery Wrote:I dont think I have blown a head gasket.
how muich is a tsi control?
my motor is from pete at petes pit stop (his personal bike)I think its running rougth for he has removed the water injection without(telling me)... remapping and there is no intercooler(mind you I dont think you guys run these)The motor has a plate and pistons, the pcIII I have is only for fuel nothing else.
With a turbo system when the engine is hot say above 90 deg does the motor start to miss on boost??
Biker

Call or P/M Maj or Leonard. Either will be ably to answer any questions on turbo busa's.

Mine does not miss at all when hot and she has gotten really really hot. 145deg water temp once when the thermostat failed and jammed shut. Not something I'd like to repeat.

My second thermo fan kicks in when she gets to 105c a very rare occurence.
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#7
Change your plugs and gap them to .5 mm don't use irridium .
Be realy fussy about bleeding the air out of the radiator system,
stg 1 kits rarely have intercoolers fitted as inlet air temp is directly related to boost pressure and the usual 6 psi doesn't make enough heat to justify the cost and fitment complications
I ran up to 20 psi on my stock decompressed engine with race fuel , the weak link at that point was the rods.
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#8
Just out of the blue, how did you go with your fuel pump wiring?

Leonard.Biker
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#9
With the fuel pump I hade to run a 13 ohm resistor across the fuel empty/full wires I hooked the fuel pump across the brown 4 pin plug.
Looks like I have cooked the motor I ran it up to temp with the cap of radiator no bubbles but when the temp guage got half way it started to bubble. whats the best way to tell, a compression test on each cylinder??
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#10
ashnery Wrote:With the fuel pump I hade to run a 13 ohm resistor across the fuel empty/full wires I hooked the fuel pump across the brown 4 pin plug.
Looks like I have cooked the motor I ran it up to temp with the cap of radiator no bubbles but when the temp guage got half way it started to bubble. whats the best way to tell, a compression test on each cylinder??
Compression test will not show much as leaks will generally only appear under the hi cyl pressures of combustion.
Were the bubbles consistant or did they reduce over time ?
When my gasket was slightly blown the res level would rise quickly when boosting.then with air (combustion gasses) in the system not return the coolant to the radiator when it cooled.
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#11
You don't need to retard timing on 10psi boost. If you're blowing bubbles when it's boosting the odds are good you've blown the head gasket.
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#12
Geri Wrote:You don't need to retard timing on 10psi boost. If you're blowing bubbles when it's boosting the odds are good you've blown the head gasket.

I think you mean to say you dont need to retard the timming but its a lot better if you do,From my understanding no kits have this facility .
But for the perfect tune on nearly always on boost it seems logicial..
And bubbles I do have..
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#13
ashnery Wrote:
Geri Wrote:You don't need to retard timing on 10psi boost. If you're blowing bubbles when it's boosting the odds are good you've blown the head gasket.

I think you mean to say you dont need to retard the timming but its a lot better if you do,From my understanding no kits have this facility .
But for the perfect tune on nearly always on boost it seems logicial..
And bubbles I do have..


No, not at all - I don't see any good reason to retard at that power level. My bike has run 1.2bar on stock timing and pump fuel (on the dyno) for 405hp. As I understand it retarding the timing can actually cause mis-firing earlier at higher boost levels on the stock ignition system because you are trying to light the spark with higher cylinder pressures due to the piston being nearer to TDC.
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#14
Geri Wrote:
ashnery Wrote:
Geri Wrote:You don't need to retard timing on 10psi boost. If you're blowing bubbles when it's boosting the odds are good you've blown the head gasket.

I think you mean to say you dont need to retard the timming but its a lot better if you do,From my understanding no kits have this facility .
But for the perfect tune on nearly always on boost it seems logicial..
And bubbles I do have..


No, not at all - I don't see any good reason to retard at that power level. My bike has run 1.2bar on stock timing and pump fuel (on the dyno) for 405hp. As I understand it retarding the timing can actually cause mis-firing earlier at higher boost levels on the stock ignition system because you are trying to light the spark with higher cylinder pressures due to the piston being nearer to TDC.

Thanks geri I am going to leave my powercomander where it is for now ,Have you guys modified or removed your thermostat?to improve flow ??
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#15
I haven't, but lots of guys in the US do .
Thermostat is there for a quick warm up ,and i don't like running the engine hard when its cold.
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