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haha no way Rods the man.
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rattle rattle rattle. yea alls well......so far.
gear change seems smoother then before. 1st gear feels different, ie bike moving off later in clutch lever release then before. not sure if just my imagination will see over time.
we meticulously put things back 1 bit at a time, greased and oiled where necessary or where book said to. noticed we musta done right when we had a few mm more thread on the main shaft for the main nut. we concluded back cog to oil pump cog wasnt housed properly before.
Many thx to Rod for all his help we both learned alot about clutches.
Out of interest, if a clutch "goes" what is actually replaced, just the discs?
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good news
pretty sure just the plates r replaced
I just hope no damage was done with the drive gear for oil pump not being engaged and not circulating oil while you were testing and running it to test things before you relised it wasnt working
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new strait away that something was wrong so was not running for that long but will just have to wait and see fingers crossed
![[Image: Resizeofbusa005.jpg]](http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f175/HAYABUSA-ROD/Resizeofbusa005.jpg) |
REGARDS ROD
MOBILE 0433 92 99 22
kangaroos1996@msn.com |
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nah Bill dont think anything like that took place, the oil pressure light wasnt on. its possible there was contact between cogs just not seated correctly.
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volvi
there are 10 drive plates 8 x 0.12 in (120 thou) &2 x 0.15 in(150thou) the thicker ones go in first&last
there are 9 x driven plates 7 x 0.08 in (80 thou) & 2 x 0.90 in (90 thou) the thicker ones go in fourth & fith
make sure you have no thrust washers left over .
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Thx greeny changed my clutch plates not long after that episode mid last year. also updated to an 03+ clutch with the 2 extra rings and diff first fiber.
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