Well, for what it's worth I changed the bits over today. Advert says 15min Probably not too far off, maybe an hour when you factor in the oil change, fairing etc.
Still simple swap. hardest part is undoing the gearbox shaft nut, but in gear, brake on, long handle and off she came. It's a staked nut. Then swap over the studs that the spring retaining nuts go into and put it back together. You get new springs, probably 40% higher stack, but handle pressure seems still OK. Mind you, Perth is having a great winter, so haven't had a chance to try it out at the Drags. One weekend left in July, so far the score is as good as the assie batsmen.
The MRE replacement centre is well made and the spline is agood fit. Replaces both original parts the driving part that has the spring studs in it, and the centre part the drives the box. The springs are average, faily roughly made, but probably not as important as valve springs. Let you know how it goes.
As a note, now that the two parts are replaced, I can see how the welding might be OK. As long as they are aligned very well, as the two parts are a very loose fit to each other. But they are both steel alloys so the welding should be a permanent fix really, as long as you go to a good welder. Find someone who does boiler tubes for a living. They are used to slightly dissimilar metals and pre and post heat treatment to get a good weld. Stay away from your average welder! <i></i>
The welded BTL is OK for street use but drag racing is entirely different, I'd be doing the same as you Bear
I found my sprocket nut was rusty & loose when I did my mod <i></i>
Ok so you put in the btl mod and the stronger springs.Did you do the slave cylinder support?I am told if you put in stronger springs,the added pressure can crack the front sprocket housing,another special.Just something else to think about. Phuck its the phantom!<i></i>
I have one of Pete's Pitstop slave cyl supports and even with the bloody heavy springs i'm using there is no flex. <i></i>
I had one on my first busa because I had stronger springs fitted. Without the "claw" I could feel a slight flexing there with stock springs, so having heard of potential problems with flex cracking, I decided to fit cheap insurance (less than $100)
at the time from Pete's Pitstop <i></i>
Um, well I tried! I spent quite some time trying to get it to fit properly. First I thought it was fouling on the water line from the pump to the back of the block, so rushed out and bought some hose so I could take the pressure off. When I pulled the ol;d hose off, not only did I loose the water but it was obvious there wasn't really much clearance between the support bracket and the steel pipe. ....Possibly enough but I'd need to bend the steel spigot. So I looked at the support and cut off the fourth lug, the really long stud that goes into the gearbox area. I reasoned that it probably didn't contribute too much to the overall strenth and I wasn't going to risk bending the steel spigot. Anyway, once reduced to the three hole version, I tried to fit it. Much to my disgust, it didn't. Not one hole lined up. It appears the machining of the large diameter around the cylinder isn't deep enough. I couldn't even get the top bolt started on it's own. Maybe I got a Friday version! In any case, by cutting the lug off, I can't return it. So I've put it back together for now, without the brace. In some respects the bracket is a bit dissappointing. It's aluminium for a start, and that's 3 times more flexible than steel, so a thinner version in stainless might be better. Then there's the black steel allen bolts.....rust!!! Thought they should be SS as well maybe. And the spacers are just galvanised. Here aluminium would be OK as they are plenty thick enough. There you go!
Just jumped off from the first ride and yes feels quite a lot heavier in the clutch action (wow, and the stiffer springs??). Take up seemed pretty smooth, so it certainly seems the go, but maybe earlier in the clutch action? Can't explain why that should be. Gear changes are a bit different too. Almost instant take up even feathering the clutch lever in between gears. That should be OK.
Question for those that weld up the parts. Did you fit longer springs at the same time?
When I get time, I'm going to see if I can measure the flex. If it's there, then I'll have to look for an alternative support.
Oh well, win some loose some! <i></i>
Try oversizing the mount holes(not by too much ) , this should allow you to fit passed most things, i may have bent the small bypass steel pipe a little for clearance. <i></i>
Well, I considered that, but my workshop is still in boxes from a move, and things like a drill press and so on are still in boxes, so it's one of those tasks you'd rather not do. I have a heavy vise so I can give it a whirl, but the drill is going to bite in something terrible. But, you're right, that's probably the best option right now. I don't have to worry about the pipe any more! <i></i>
Bear resend your postage address and I will send you another bracket free of charge .................as for the aluminium its aviation grade and I can assure you more than up to the task (spacers also) ............if anything it's over kill.
When fitting you may need to radius out the bracket a little where it fits around the body of the slave cylinder, this is done so that it's a snug fit around the cylinder when fitted up as it needs to be. Just take a little at a time until the bolts go into their respective holes without miss alignment.
I have been running this set up with an MRE billett centre and heavy springs for over 5 years now and not a problem.
Any probs give me a call .......just don't cut it in half
Pete <i></i>
As far as the flexing is concerned, any movement there obviously translates to a small amount of lost motion on the push rod. Although perhaps inconsequential, I just don't like knowing it could or is happening.
After fitment of the welded BTL, stronger springs with spacers plus the brace, my clutch was then as good as anything I've ever had. Nice linear take up with good lever feel & no sudden grabbing
One of the best improvements I made to that bike <i></i>
Kind offer fasterfaster1, I haven't cut it in half, just took off the lug where it fouls the water pipe. My concern there is bending the pipe, I don't want to fracture where the steel pipe goes into the ally body. My hassle is not having a workshop set up yet, and that makes life a bit hard. Haven't even got a bench for my vices. <i></i>
You can make the BTL eliminatator and clutch slave support yourself for a couple of hours labour and a bit of aluminum plate.
If anyone is interested I'll try to post/email some pictures.
All tried and tested .
Bear, you may have to bend the steel pipe slightly use a ring spanner and gently bend the tube without loading the alloy part.
Leonard. <i></i>
Thanks. I have been offered a replacement, so to do it justice I will have another go at it. I guess, up till now, things I bought fitted, and as you an see above, these don't. They are imported, or I assume so, since they appear on other web sites (Schnitz Racing). But if the cut out around the cylinder needs dressing, that's not too easy to do. When they had it in the mill would have been easier!
Still, I have also been thinking of alternatives. The very best would be a casting that incorporated the chain guard and cylinder all in one casting, suitably thickened and reinforced where the flexing occurs. But that's too hard in the back yard. Another would be a casting similar to the bracket I currently have with the legs cast into it. You could then massage the shape a bit around the water pipe. Again, beyond my resourses right now. So, when the new bracket turns up, I will try a refit and if I have to trim the cylinder area, I will get a suitable tool and do it.
Can't complain about the supplier though, I've had good service in that regard.
Cheers <i></i>
See post in general discussion re use of the clutch in anger. <i></i>
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