Bleeding Brakes!!!

[gmcwhae]

Recently fitted Goodridge SS Brake lines,front and rear, and at the same time switched to Synthetic fluid(Shell), also put in new Goodridge pads front and rear. I'm not happy with lever/pedal response and I think there must still be some air in the systems...............any thoughts (preferably good ones)
Bone????????? <i></i>

[gazza414]

Have a try at cracking the banjo bolt at the master cyl exit point --its the highest point and tends to trap air. Be sure to surround the area with rags. <i></i>

[1hotRF]

There are a few other things you can try too.

1/ Tie the brake handle to the twist grip with a bungee cord or a small piece of rope overnight. This puts the fluid under pressure and will allow the bubbles to move up the system.

2/ Rapidly pump the lever striking it with the palm of the hand a few times. If you have the reservior cover off you can see bubbles come out of the system there too.

3/ With a soft face hammer, tap the calipers, the lines, and the master cylinder reservoir. You'll be amazed how much this can dislodge.

I've had the same problems bleeding brakes, some systems are piece of piss, where others you seem to have an uphill struggle to get pressure in the handle.

If that fails, have a look at all your lines, and make sure they are absolutely tight, and that none of the washers under the banjos are loose. And the last resort........Pay somebody else to do it. (Been there once too)

Have you gone direct to the calipers from the master cylinder with 2 lines, or have you got the aluminum cross over piece under the bottom yoke.

Hope that helps.

Regards
Graham
1hotRF <i></i>

[nickmakwell]

Okay - you can beat me with a hammer later on -

i have never bled brakes on a bike or car before - and want to do it on my Busa.

I have a small kit - just a hose and joints to go to the bleed nipples - and the instructions are vague, at best.

I am a complete noob at this, so am asking can someone give me a step by step procedure on how to do this?????????????

Trying to do as much servicing by myself.

<i></i>

[02busa1]

Take a hose that fits snug on the bleeder. Preferably a clear hose. so you can watch the air disappear. Then put that hose into a bottle of fluid about a 1/4 full. Make sure the hose is and stays in the fluid so it will not suck air. Then open the bleeder and pump the lever. Make sure the reservior stays full too. Watch the hose when the air bubbles are gone close the bleeder and see where your at... If that doesn't work you can try opening the bleeder just enough to let fluid drip and walk away for an hour or two. This is called gravity bleeding. Keep checking the reservior to make sure it doesn't empty. After awhile close the bleeder and see where your at.. One of these methods shoud do the trick. <i>Edited by: 02busa1 at: 13/6/05 20:53
</i>

[rev 01]

Some good tips there for sure provided you're not in too much of a hurry.

If you have an air compressor or something to pressurise the master cylinder it could save you a lot of time, trouble & frustration.

I made up an aluminium adapter with a valve in it to put a few pounds of air pressure into the master cylinder to force the fluid through. Used it on my bikes a few times & another member's. <i></i>

[rocket rod 7777]

Ide be going for the banjo bolt at the master cylinder.
I found that when i put braided lines on my beast,i had the same symptons.I pulled the brake lever in and cracked the m/c banjo bolt.You should have seen the air that came out of there. After that the lever was as hard as a woody in a massage palour.
Ps,make sure you put a rag under it as mentioned above. Phuck its the phantom!<i></i>

[TomRux]

a trap for young players with the back brakes is that there are two (yes I mean more than one) bleed nipples. please dont ask me how I know.


Tom "No Fear" Just means you aint goin quick enough yet !!!!!
<i></i>

[Max]

A really sneaky trick i learnt was to bleed from the bottom. This actually works really well. Air bubbles want to travel up, conventional bleeding has us trying to get the damned little bubbles to go down.
Lift the top off your master cylinder so you can watch the fluid level as it rises, then take a reasonably large syringe with a rubber hose on it, fill the syringe with brake fluid through the rubber hose, try to avoid any air in the hose as you squeeze the hose over tyhe furthest away from the master cylinder bleed-nipple, open the nipple and gently squeeze the brake fluid into the system from the bottom. As the fluid rises in the master cylinder - suck it out with a hose. This method is just so much quicker than the conventional it's amazing.

Hope this helps.


Max Madmax - GSX1300R Black and Blue Buses Rule
Good Bike, Good Woman, Good Road, Good Weather, Good God - Good Bye!
Smith and Wesson - The original point and click interface.
<i></i>

[nickmakwell]

Just finished doing a bleed on my front brakes.

I had almost no idea what I was doing until I re-read theposts here - then it was a breeze (I didnt fill the bottle up with fluid.....)

Not too hard, even for a dullard like me!

Took the bike for a strap straightaway - big difference, real meaty feel to the brakes, I prefer two finger braking - this is easy! Took it up to 140 or so and applied very hard (not lock up hard, you know what I mean) and they worked fine.

My neighbours are a bit pissed, me almost doing stoppies - I wanted to see how fast to slow down from 60....works real well.

Cant figure out how to check the pads - next stage - I took the little flappy thingy off and had a look, and there was still meat on them - I assume there okay? Wouldnt know WTF brand/type they are.....

Thanks again ppl. <i></i>