Chain & Sprockets

[ardvark]

I have 35,000km up now and my chain & sprockets look a little tired. Has anyone researched the alternatives to the RK chain?

What about the Sprockets... should I go genuine or not.

Any recommended suppliers would help too.

Thanx
Ardvark <i></i>

[demeester]

I have an additional question - I know how to tell when sprockets are getting on a bit, but what about chain? What are the warning signs that the chain is due to be replaced? <i></i>

[WARD P]

I've just replaced my chain (2nd one) @ 55,000km.
I didn't replace the sprockets this time as they looked fine.

I knew I needed to replace the chain because it had stretched. As I turned the back wheel the chain tension went from quite loose to very tight - wonder if it had anything to do with all those monos??? <i></i>

[ardvark]

I know my chain has had it because I need to adjust it more frequently.

Also I have noticed a build up of red dust on some links indicating moisture getting behind the O rings.

The standard chain (RK gsv350) Costs around $350. Anyone found any alternatives??

The ZX12 runs a DID chain which costs about the same I was told.

Ardvark <i></i>

[col]

G'day Guys,

I would use the OEM sprockets, they seem to be better in quality but I would use a Tsubaki 530 Sigma chain. In my opinion its the strongest on the market.

If you have trouble finding one drop me a call on 02 9602 9714 and I'll help you out.

Regards Col <i></i>

[James]

As one of the major wear points on a chain are the pins running through the links, if you apply pressure (an index finger suffices) to the chain between the countershaft and the rear sprockets then with the other hand try to lift a link off the rear sprocket holding the pin between the thumb and index finger, the amount of movement away from the sprocket is indicative of chain wear. In some situations I have been able to lift the link almost over the sprocket teeth. There should be very little (if any movement. regards - Jim <i></i>

[demeester]

Thanks for that, Jim. That is quite a useful description. <i></i>

[OLD CAHN]

G'day,

Richard, Jame's description is indeed a good one. Another way of checking the chain is to grab the chain between thumb and forefinger and pull back from the rear of the sprocket and see how much you can move it.
There should be very little movement, if you can pull the chain enough to see any teeth you have big problems.

Jeff <i></i>

[demeester]

Should you check multiple points in the chain, (i.e. rotate and check different sections) or will one check pretty much give you a good indication? <i></i>

[Cameron]

If you buy yourself an original Suzuki workshop manual you would find a measurment between the links that ensures you don't end up with the chain through your gearbox at 300kmph.
might be worth the investment. <i></i>

[Terrahawk]

Count out 21 pins (20 pitches) and measure the distance between the two points.Replace when the distance exceeds the service limit.
Service limit 319.4 mm (12.7 in).

Yes you should check your chain at various points and if there is a great variation or tight spots the chain should be replaced. <i></i>