Buell peg modification

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Here's what I learnt about installing the Buell footpegs:

This shows the difference in height:



The right one (pictured below) needed a fair bit of grinding/sanding to fit in, probably because my rearsets had been chromed. I estimate I took off about 3mm from the top and also some on the sides and below (to allow for the exhaust).

I also grinded an extra half a millimetre off, pending a plate of chrome to come

(See red arrows)




For a sleeve I used a 10mm dyna-bolt. I found it very difficult to cut to size as it warped and bent quite easily...


The end result was two bits of dyna-bolt that look ugly (not that they show when installed)but do the job. I think copper pipe may have been easier to work with.

Much like the right peg, the left one needed similar grinding...

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Careful when using a bench grinder, as I discovered the stuff gets hot in your hand!






Then there's the "poor mans Buell pegs"


Take apart your bits like this



...and chuck them on






The temporary pegs without the rubber stuff feel more slippery under foot, though that may be because I was walking around in the workshop too. I didn't notice any extra vibration or shakes without the rubber stuff...


First, the "Blackzook mod", that Bruce recommended. I'm not sure if this exactly what Bruce did, but it seems to make sense as it would make the edges of the pegs less slippery...

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I used one of those triangular file thingies and held the footpeg in a vice.


Second, adjusting the brake lever height:

Undo the whole unit... disconnect the black electrical bit, then hold the brake cylinder thing while spinning the whole unit to undo and gain access to the bottom of the bolt that needs shortening:







Cutting the bolt was tricky. A hack-saw would do it (in about 10 minutes!!!), but you need something like multigrips to hold the brake cylinder... I was lucky; I had my mechanic with a air-pressure type mini angle grinder thing... cut through it in 12 seconds. I cut off about 3 or 4mm

Next, adjusting the rear brake light:

See the above picture... pull the black plastic bolt upward (held down by a spring) and then outward... then simply wind up and replace... trial and error until your brake light operates properly again.



Finally, adjusting the gear lever position. Many have done this before, but I thought I'd include it for those who haven't.

There are two adjustments:





Got them back from the chroming place, and got "matching" rear pegs off a Gixxer 1000

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FINALLY, Volvi asked me, "Pan was it worth all your effort?"

My answer:

No, not really to be honest with ya Volvi. It seems to suit most people, but after riding all day with them I found that the gear lever was difficult to reach... I lowered it, but the kick-stand would hinder my boot from getting under it... and I also felt less comfortable going around corners with the pegs being much closer to the ground.

It was good to go through the process... buying them, grinding them, chroming them... but they are now on Simmo's bike! I'm back to my stockers and maybe looking for Gixxer pegs...

ALSO, Simmo subsequently snapped 2 footpegs. It seems grinding them and chroming them made the weaker. Mind you, Simmo averages about 8 monos between sets of traffic lights, and coming donw hard on the pegs may contribute to snapping them.

THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS THOUGH, SO PLEASE KEEP THIS IN MIND IF YOU ATTEMPT THIS MOD.