Help Fast Please, No ignition Power

[Haerera]

we found dodgy connection on clutch(when pulled in) and sidestand killswitch-contact cleaner fixed it but still did new battery as well-just a thought?

[ChemoDave]

...............RESULT.........!

Crook Battery was the cause of the problem. Installed a new one, and everything is back to normal.

In over the 25yrs, Ive owned a bike, Ive never seen a battery do this or anything like this before, usuallly it would give a few slow coughs indicating that the battery needs to be charged or something. I suppose thats the newer ecu,electronic powered bikes for you these days.

THANKS FOR ALL THE SUPPORT AND COMMENTS.

you learn something new everyday.

:

[fullbore busa]

Mine did exactly the same thing last year , put in new battery & was fine .

Mark

[Pommie]

...............RESULT.........!

Crook Battery was the cause of the problem. Installed a new one, and everything is back to normal.

In over the 25yrs, Ive owned a bike, Ive never seen a battery do this or anything like this before, usuallly it would give a few slow coughs indicating that the battery needs to be charged or something. I suppose thats the newer ecu,electronic powered bikes for you these days.

THANKS FOR ALL THE SUPPORT AND COMMENTS.

you learn something new everyday.

:

Oh yeahhhh go the Pom

I see it regularly with cars cos of my job, no different in a bike I reckon

[ChemoDave]

---------- Cancel the RESULT ---------------

New battery looked like a 24hr cure, I know the bike has codes logged in the ECU now, So its off to the bike shop for connection to the dealer to get the map codes of the fault.

First guess would be the CDI/Altenator unit, not recharging the power circuit and battery system. So the bike only ran off the power from the new battery I just installed.


Diagnostics of fault

Rode the bike to work today, all good, left it at work, rode home halfway home.. riding along, F1 light flashed, F! in the clock LCD, then all the power to the dash cut out, no lights, instruments, nothing working, F1 light stayed on, the bike ran very very rough for about 500m, then it completely stopped. I pulled over, turned the bike OFF, left it for a few mintues, turned the ignition back ON, all lights and instruments all back and working, hit the start button, and it was as if the battery was flat, wont kick over (start), within the time it tried to kick over the motor, all power lost. Again, and all power and instrument, lights gone.

$$$ for alternator, diode repair, regulator, any of the listed, will find out early next week.

[Throwdown!]

I did want to say 'it ain't over' yesterday, but was on a work computer I couldn't really use. My bet is still the rectifier. Search for some of our experiences on here - I put up with this for nearly 3 years, trickle charging at home and at work.

If you want to be REALLY sure, get yourself a used stator and rectifier (you already have the new batt) from a young bike at a wreckers, then put them on yourself. Even with the outlay on both parts, you'll be paying less than pushing it around a few mechanics paying for a diagnostic before the real work begins.

If you get a rectifier only (a lot cheaper and might be all you need - check the live and neg wires are the right way around to your stator - mine weren't and blew 4-5 main fuses before I worked it out. The connecting plug under the seat may have melted, especially if you ride in the rain alot, as might the one at the rectifier end too. I ended up hard wiring in both sets.

I have no mechanical experience and did an ace job just from using a manual, so spend on one of those too. I reckon I saved around $8-900 for a more durable job, and got to know my bike better so much so that I changed the clutch soon after in about an hour and a bit. Stripping it is almost as much fun as riding it!

Good luck!

PS.
You look like you've got a '99, mine is a '00.
I found the range of a fully charged battery without a charging system to be about 87km.
When I had some charge, it only effected start up - I could still bump start and ride anywhere.
Once the charging system packed up, it did what yours is doing and couldn't even bump start it.

[Maj]

Connectors on the alternator circuit too, haven't heard of many probs lately but they were a common thing,
most likely up at the regulator , but check at the end of the alternator wires too , usual fix if there the prob is to fit new terminals and plug, readily available at an auto elec.
fault code is probably from things complaining with not enough voltage, will loose the codes anyway as soon as you key off

[Pommie]

---------- Cancel the RESULT ---------------

New battery looked like a 24hr cure, I know the bike has codes logged in the ECU now, So its off to the bike shop for connection to the dealer to get the map codes of the fault.

First guess would be the CDI/Altenator unit, not recharging the power circuit and battery system. So the bike only ran off the power from the new battery I just installed.


Diagnostics of fault

Rode the bike to work today, all good, left it at work, rode home halfway home.. riding along, F1 light flashed, F! in the clock LCD, then all the power to the dash cut out, no lights, instruments, nothing working, F1 light stayed on, the bike ran very very rough for about 500m, then it completely stopped. I pulled over, turned the bike OFF, left it for a few mintues, turned the ignition back ON, all lights and instruments all back and working, hit the start button, and it was as if the battery was flat, wont kick over (start), within the time it tried to kick over the motor, all power lost. Again, and all power and instrument, lights gone.

$$$ for alternator, diode repair, regulator, any of the listed, will find out early next week.

Ahhh bugger

[Throwdown!]

Hey! What's happened? How have you gone?