Oil filter

[Aussie Steve]

Ok I am still having minor?? probs with my temp guage reading high. Now I mentioned I had done an oil change but didn't say that I had changed to fully synthetic...Valvoline 20/50 to be accurate.

One question is... since it said to tighten the oil filter a further 2 turns after the seal contacts, both on the filter and in the handbook, I did so...albeit using a pair of slip pliers on the thing and possibly denting it a tiny bit... could this be a possible reason for the temp rise? The oil light goes straight out on startup and the motor makes no weird sounds but for the life of me I cannot find any reason for this to be happening.

To be honest i didn't even check to see if it was doing this before the oil change...weather had been cooler but it was a warm day sat at several city lights for what seemed a long time when the problem initialy occured. My biggest worry is come summer and high temps the bike will overheat in a big way.

The motor has just over 6k now, (5400 when I got it) on it but the bike is an 06 so it has done very little mileage for the year. The oil level is fine and so is the coolant. I popped the radiator cap off and leaned the bike over to see if any air was trapped...even squeezed her pipes to try and evacuate any air.

So this morning I am riding to work, temp is about 8 degrees, and the guage reads just a tiny tad over the mid line whilst waiting at the lights. It goes down when moving and the fan comes on...I can hear it running.

Am I being anal... is this nothing to worry about or should I change the oil back to dino and fit a new filter? I had an air/oil cooled Bandit before the Bus and it ran fine on the car synthetic I put in that.

Ps sorry about the life story!!!

[Katana2]

My 2cents worth. Replace coolant. Dent in filter will not restrict in and out flow of it, no prob. If oil has friction modifiers in it, will build up gunk on clutch plates and stuff em. Should notice that before temp prob! Not worry about temp gauge problem unless there starts to be a running problem. Thermo will do enough to care for the motor when stationery?, then don't frett. If motor starts to run (idle) poorly when temp gauge is high?, shut down, self medicate and seek professional help.

[Greeny_SA]

My fan only comes on sitting at a red light on a 40 degree day ,Gauge a bees dick over half ,runs 2 min then off .

[pan]

It can be so many things! I remember one bloke had similar symptoms and it simply needed a new radiator cap in the end...

[Aussie Steve]

Thanks for the replies guys....Pan as the radiator cap is a simple and cheap fix I will get one and see if it makes any difference. The oil has no friction modifiers in it. I have found car specific full synthetic to be less expensive than the motorcycle specific ones...last time I checked they were around $86.00 to $102.00 for four litres...talk about snake oil!!!

[steventh]

Steve,

Doesn't sound like you have a problem at all. The temp will always increase when stationary and if not in the red zone its OK.

Also why use 20w50 oil (especially in a new engine) when the manual states 10w40? Running the thicker oil may actually increase the internal temperature of the engine (though probably only marginally) from what Ive read.

Now before I get flamed the reason for the increase in temps with thicker oil is;
Thicker oil has higher internal friction (yes oil has friction) and friction = heat.
Thicker oil has lower flow rate, lower flow rate means less volume past bearings etc reducing the affectiveness of the oil to act as a coolant (one of its important jobs).

From memory 20W50 is for vehicles produced in the mid 90s and before. Even the Gen 1 Busa (1999) spec'd 10w40.

Having said this, running xW50 wont damage your engine and some will argue will give better boundary lubrication (though x should be as low as possible).

Cheers

Steventh

[Aussie Steve]

Ok... I don't think the extra low end thickness is a problem...not preaching to more knowleable people but as far I understand the lower figure is for cold starting and the higher one is for hot running. As for the "cheap fix" of a new radiator cap...how does $45.00 sound...for a genuine Suzuki radiator cap!!! I then went to a car parts outlet but was unable to get the right configuration of cap in the correct pressure...they were only $12.00 each tho.

I can and will get an after market one that will cost $25.00 but it still is about $10.00 more than it is worth...especially as a lot of so called genuine parts are now made in China.

[steventh]