27-02-2001, 11:56pm
There was lots of stuff talked about but here is a collation of notes on some of the subjects we talked about.Thanks again to Colin for his time,effort and expertise for the weekend and reviewing these notes before they got posted. As if he hadn't had enough of us on Saturday! Colin- Sorry bout the traminer but it was either that or a slab of gatorade. LOL
Apologies to Richard and Keith for the misinformation about the ignition timing not being affected by the gear selector sensor.
Regards All - Jim
ALL INFORMATION IS INCOMPLETE AND IS ONLY MEANT AS A REMINDER FOR SOME OF THE SUBJECTS SPOKEN ABOUT IN SYDNEY. FOR FURTHER INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT SOMEONE WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT.
1/.        Gear Selector Sensor (Pink wire)
       
        This sensor indicates to the ECM which gear the bike is in so the ECM can adjust fueling and ignition timing for each gear. Cutting the pink wire may make the bike run leaner at higher speeds in 5th and 6th. Taking the resistors (4) out of the sensor reverts the fueling to neutral setting for 1st through to 4th. 5th and 6th are then fueled up as air box pressure rises. A better result will be had.
       
2/.        Throttle Position Sensor
This sets up a base from which the ECM works for fueling throughout the rpm range. It is critical to set this up correctly. Set incorrectly the fueling will be all over the place, power and rideability will suffer. The correct setting is 1.120 volts at 1150rpm. Use a good digital meter for this.
3/.        Air Filter Flapper
Air filter flapper assists with control of airflow in the air box which differs as speed increases or decreases. Removal of the flapper mechanism can gain a couple of hp. All remaining edges need to be bevelled especially where air changes direction so turbulence does not minimize volume and flow of air box. Richard has found a plumbing fitting that can be used to block the bottom hole beautifully (once cut out). Changing the position of long and short intake ducts has not been found to have any benefits and can in fact cause air flow problems through the air box.
4/.        Back Torque Limiter
The welding of the back torque limiter besides stopping that “clunk” can also reduce rear wheel locking on down change due to not exerting locking pressure on the clutch. This welding must be done in a jig to disallow movement from welding and is position specific. (make sure they know what they are doing if you get it done)
5/.        Throttle Bodies
We viewed some throttle bodies that had been taken out to 48mm from the standard 46mm. Looked very impressive but is not necessary unless more work is done as the standard bodies outflow they factory head.
6/.        Cam Timing
The standard cam gears are pressed on and have been known to be out from factory which can obviously effect performance a little or a lot. Adjustable gears are available where the gear locator is pressed on and the actual gear is bolted on to the locator through adjustable slots. Now you can time your cams where you want them to be.
7/.        Fuel and Injector Cleaning
Octane rating (the higher the rating the slower the fuel burns lessening the chance of detonation and engine damage and allows power to be produced all the way through the power stroke) is increased by the addition of either one of two additives. One leaves a lot more residue on valves and pistons etc causing amongst other things hot spots and flow problems. This additive is used in most premium fuels. Exceptions are Optimax and the new Caltex fuel. (Caltex are in the process of changing over and flushing their tanks so wait for a while) Optimax also contains an injector cleaning agent.
Outcomes:        a/. Use Optimax with only an octane
booster, which will have a rating
closer to 100
        b./ Use the new Caltex fuel under same
conditions as Optimax once the tanks
have been cleaned.
c/. If unable to do the above use normal
unleaded with an octane booster and
injector cleaner until other fuel is
found.
8/.        Cam Chain Tensioner
The cam chain tensioner recall has fitted an hydraulic tensioner which is obviously better than the standard units fitted to early bikes. The hydraulic unit adjusts via oil line connected to the tensioner. This creates a situation where the tension depends on oil pressure, which can vary and is also affected by oil thickness ( viscosity). This can affect engine component wear and excessive drag on the cam chain taking some precious hp away. There is a manual tensioner available that can avoid some of this but must be fitted and adjusted properly.
9/.        Oils
Suzuki recommend mineral oil. Stick with it. There are some issues of wear and clutch slip with synthetic.
TIP OF THE DAY
To remove melted DriRider pants from exhaust collector run on dyno after which it falls off.
Apologies to Richard and Keith for the misinformation about the ignition timing not being affected by the gear selector sensor.
Regards All - Jim
ALL INFORMATION IS INCOMPLETE AND IS ONLY MEANT AS A REMINDER FOR SOME OF THE SUBJECTS SPOKEN ABOUT IN SYDNEY. FOR FURTHER INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT SOMEONE WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT.
1/.        Gear Selector Sensor (Pink wire)
       
        This sensor indicates to the ECM which gear the bike is in so the ECM can adjust fueling and ignition timing for each gear. Cutting the pink wire may make the bike run leaner at higher speeds in 5th and 6th. Taking the resistors (4) out of the sensor reverts the fueling to neutral setting for 1st through to 4th. 5th and 6th are then fueled up as air box pressure rises. A better result will be had.
       
2/.        Throttle Position Sensor
This sets up a base from which the ECM works for fueling throughout the rpm range. It is critical to set this up correctly. Set incorrectly the fueling will be all over the place, power and rideability will suffer. The correct setting is 1.120 volts at 1150rpm. Use a good digital meter for this.
3/.        Air Filter Flapper
Air filter flapper assists with control of airflow in the air box which differs as speed increases or decreases. Removal of the flapper mechanism can gain a couple of hp. All remaining edges need to be bevelled especially where air changes direction so turbulence does not minimize volume and flow of air box. Richard has found a plumbing fitting that can be used to block the bottom hole beautifully (once cut out). Changing the position of long and short intake ducts has not been found to have any benefits and can in fact cause air flow problems through the air box.
4/.        Back Torque Limiter
The welding of the back torque limiter besides stopping that “clunk” can also reduce rear wheel locking on down change due to not exerting locking pressure on the clutch. This welding must be done in a jig to disallow movement from welding and is position specific. (make sure they know what they are doing if you get it done)
5/.        Throttle Bodies
We viewed some throttle bodies that had been taken out to 48mm from the standard 46mm. Looked very impressive but is not necessary unless more work is done as the standard bodies outflow they factory head.
6/.        Cam Timing
The standard cam gears are pressed on and have been known to be out from factory which can obviously effect performance a little or a lot. Adjustable gears are available where the gear locator is pressed on and the actual gear is bolted on to the locator through adjustable slots. Now you can time your cams where you want them to be.
7/.        Fuel and Injector Cleaning
Octane rating (the higher the rating the slower the fuel burns lessening the chance of detonation and engine damage and allows power to be produced all the way through the power stroke) is increased by the addition of either one of two additives. One leaves a lot more residue on valves and pistons etc causing amongst other things hot spots and flow problems. This additive is used in most premium fuels. Exceptions are Optimax and the new Caltex fuel. (Caltex are in the process of changing over and flushing their tanks so wait for a while) Optimax also contains an injector cleaning agent.
Outcomes:        a/. Use Optimax with only an octane
booster, which will have a rating
closer to 100
        b./ Use the new Caltex fuel under same
conditions as Optimax once the tanks
have been cleaned.
c/. If unable to do the above use normal
unleaded with an octane booster and
injector cleaner until other fuel is
found.
8/.        Cam Chain Tensioner
The cam chain tensioner recall has fitted an hydraulic tensioner which is obviously better than the standard units fitted to early bikes. The hydraulic unit adjusts via oil line connected to the tensioner. This creates a situation where the tension depends on oil pressure, which can vary and is also affected by oil thickness ( viscosity). This can affect engine component wear and excessive drag on the cam chain taking some precious hp away. There is a manual tensioner available that can avoid some of this but must be fitted and adjusted properly.
9/.        Oils
Suzuki recommend mineral oil. Stick with it. There are some issues of wear and clutch slip with synthetic.
TIP OF THE DAY
To remove melted DriRider pants from exhaust collector run on dyno after which it falls off.