Braided Brake Lines
#16
(to all current and prospective busa riders who haven't already)
THE DAY you buy the bike, change the lines and the pads. I didn't and was very displeased with the busa's braking performance for about 8000k's. I run Goodridge carbon look braided lines with ebc HH sintered pads and the thing stops like it's bolted to the road. The stock braking setup is somewhat pox, if you wanna go fast make sure you can stop 'yesterday'...
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#17
Yeah GDY the GIXER pegs are great but you never know until you try them & thanks for the ride swap.

That inch makes all the difference but you would never think that it would ! THE PEGS THAT IS
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#18
Good advice Bigshow, we all spend money making the bike quicker and forget about pulling up.
That's what the girl said to the sailor Rev. Wait until you fit your braided lines!
Wait till you here about my next mod............................
Cheers, Phil. Riding, cause ever inch counts
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#19
Your next mod ? but GDY, I haven't told you what it's going to be yet must go over to labusa's to see what's happening

I can see that mudguard being hacked off right now though and then there's the airhorns to wake the dead wood driving I reckon & then there's .............
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#20
AeroCat, I'm still doing some research on the lines. Most are basically stainless steel braided with options of different colored sleeves. Have noticed Spieglers in Germany offer's either option sleeve or sleeveless, not sure about the legal issue.

Something for Busa owners to consider is 2 lines straight down or as OEM 1 line down the other over the mudguard. They say 2 straight down is better for bleeding and better for the 2nd caliper. The negative if perceived is having the 2 banjos up top instead of the current 1.

Having the Copper Bus, the only acceptable sleeve color might be the clear or smoked. Point taken as above for stainless banjos. So far the average price is around $100 a line, mostly put together by importers of Goodrich. Seems a bit exhorbitant, but profit is also the name of the game.

I changed my OEM pads to EBC HH as recomended above some 20k ago and due for replacement soon. But found the EBC pretty noisy initially and I did glaze them. Am not sure whether to stick with the EBC or perhaps go back to OEM. The rears are finally close to a change, theyre still OEM done 42k.

Will advise what I finally do, but dont necessarily wait for me as I can often take my time and do it when I have satisfied myself covering all the angles.

Goodridge; www.goodridge.net/
Spiegler; www.spiegler.de/gb/Products/motorcycle.html
Motorhead; www.hayabusaparts.com/brake_lines.htm
Stamnas; www.johnstamnas.com/
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#21
Oh, forgot to mention, also intend to do the clutch fluid mod when replacing. IE the milk bottle top mod, preventing gunge from front chain contaminating the master cylinder and thereby the fluid.

Anyone done that yet?
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#22
Your not having a go at me again, Gdy? What globes did you put in Rev to increase your illuminance?
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#23
Yes it was meant for you Richard. There is no hope of making "that" style of lenses visible, so some small cat eye indicators were fitted on a braket. It came up a treat, and they can be seen. As the good Reverend said "ever inch counts" Or was that the footpegs???
Yeh, thats right Rev then there's ....................(As discussed over a latte at Albert Park today). Shit, it's only money!
Cheers, Phil. Sipping latte's at Albert Park. (Now I know how the other half live. Bunch of poofs!)
Rather be riding
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#24
G'day Deemeester, I replaced my complained about indicators (no names) with the small oval one's that you can get anywhere. The originals were integral with the undertail located near the top of the hugger which looked ok but harder to see as they are much lower down.

GDY: Yep that's how we operate I get a sore wrist from pulling on Al's leash though & a waitress told him that he reminded her of someone & he jumps in & ask's who !

She say's "my friend's father" ! put him back in his box (for a minute)
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