Chains and Sprockets
#1
Did a major clean of the chain, and when nice and clean, noticed it was very noisy on the drive sprocket. Thought it would quieten down with lube so applied the magic spray, but it is still noisy. I guess it's the original and maybe at 40,000 km it's due for replacement. So, if I'm doing that, I'll junk the chain as well.
Question, since my bike is probably going to do drags for most of it's Kms this coming year, what sprocket and what chain is recommended? <i></i>
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#2
OEM? and you got 40K???, thats a record the oem is really quite junky of a chain, stretches to buggary and if its 40k it shud be well and trully rooted by now, most last 30k MAX. Replacement? you cant go better imho then DID ZVM2 as on bottom of page here; www.didchain.com/xring1.htm

Sprocket? well drag racers will no doubt give theyre experienced based opinions but I have for road a Supervox Stealth (43t) steel outer rim, alum. inner. as here;
www.supersprox.cz/stealth.php?lng=en <i></i>
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#3
Sorry, wasn't clear enough. I'm sure the chain has been replaced, just maybe not the sprocket. Thanks for info, I'm on to it! <i></i>
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#4
OK, what's the best combinations for drag racing? <i></i>
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#5
16-42 will launch hard and will get you to the line right on the limiter in 4th. Fun on the street too. Bruce
N2O no laughing matter
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#6
Sounds like a hoot!
Might just see if they have a 16 in stock! <i></i>
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#7
Ian, on my 1st attempt at the drags I stuck with stock gearing 17/40 and bike ran 10.4 1st go out then down to 10.1's .
Its a real personal thing with what suits I believe, as you get better and more accustomed to this as the guys above have done they change gearing, lowering and tyre pressures etc are cheap , easy and effective.

good luck <i></i>
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#8
Ian

I did a 9.854@142.27MPH with stock gearing, 1 Inch lowered and a pipe.

The 16T may of helped but my goal was a 9, ride in ride out on stock gearing.

The times will come with practice more than anything else.

Shayne
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#9
Mmmh, getting tougher!
I guess the 16 or 17 is a cheap change to make.
But Shane/Gazza, I tend to be a bit like youselves in trying to get the max performance with the least changes.
I ran a 10.4 last season right at the end with stock gearing, std pipes, and std tyre pressure and no burn out. I had the back lowered 50mm. I've now got the TiForce fitted, and have just chewed out the airbox, so I'd like to see how far I can go with that. I must admit, I prefer taller gearing for the road and track as I can circulate Wanaroo quite happily and reasonably fast using 3rd and 4th right now. I'm certainly not the slowest in my group! (Not the fastest either but that's me not the bike). Soooo, std front and a new chain may be the order of the day. Just need to get a chain breaker now. <i></i>
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#10
Quote:Just need to get a chain breaker now

It's called a grinder ;)


Arguing with idiots is like wrestling a pig in the mud, you both get dirty but the pig enjoys it!<i></i>
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#11
I changed chains today (again).
Breaker is a grinder.
Riveter is a sledge hammer as backing and a ball pien to burr the pins.

I own both a breaker and riveter but the above is easier and more effective. Bruce
N2O no laughing matter
<i></i>
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#12
Happy with the grinder approach, I have a well used one!
Don't the chains have a pin that's shaped to flare properly with the right tool or am I being a bit anal about it all. I have a shit load, sorry that should read a "shed" load of tools for push bikes, and all that is quite specific.
Riding Sunday? <i></i>
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