Heated Grips By Busdriver

[ROD]

RE: Heated Grips?
The sort of grips Heidi is talking ablout are the new type of Oxford grips with push button + or - temp control. According to the instructions, the controller has "SOFISTICATED SOFTWARE" that will turn the grips of if you leave them on to prevent the battery being discharged. It mentions a battery voltage of 11 volts so you should still be able to start your bike.

But it also mentions not leaving your grips on high as you might cook the grips.

SO, to avoid all these problems, I wired a 12volt relay into the system to cut power to the grips when the ignition is turned off. Thereby solving both problems. The way I've wired it is for the relay to proved an earth to the grips with the ignition on.

THIS PROCEDURE IS FOR PRE-2008 models. DON"T KNOW WHAT THE GEN 2s are wired like.....YET.

*** You will need: one 12 volt relay, 4 female flat type crimp connectors, 2 round crimp connectors with a hole big enough for one of the screws on your battery terminals to go thru, automotive wire, solder, soldering iron, electrical tape, cable ties, sharp knike (small artwork type knife works great), some double sided tape.

On Heidi's bike (not sure of year model) and Max's and my K6s, there is an accessory plug under the nose cone on the right hand side that comes out of the wiring loom to the right indicator. It it terminated with a little black 2-pin female connector. The brown wire is 12volts through the ignition switch, the black wire with white trace is earth.

If you have the screen off, the instrument panel out and the right side panelling removed, it is possible to, with the correct size male crimp terminals, to plug into this and use this ignition swithed 12volts to activate the relay I fitted to provide power from the battery to the grips.

If you don't want to remove, or don't have it off while doing other stuff, here is what I did to mine and Heidi's.

Remove the screen, makes it easier to work on the wires and leads.

Remove the left hand side panel, the one that covers the fuse box.

Locate and disconnect the whitish colour loom connector. It wll have a brown wire going into and out of it.( by memory I think the only other connector in the vicinity is yellow- leave that one alone)

Cut back the tape covering the loom about 2 or three inches to give you room to seperate the brown wire out of the loom.

Using a small piece of wood to put between the brown wire and the rest of the loom, strip back the insulation on the brown wire about 3/4 of an inch. The wood or whatever you want to use gives you a platform to work on for strpping back the wire and the soldering to come next. Then using a piece of electical wire, long enough to go from here, down which ever side you wish, (I routed it behind the instrument panel and down the rght side , better clearance available from hot things) to the black box thingy behind the battery, splice this wire into the brown wire and solder for good measure. Terminate the othe end with a flat type femal connect of the type to fit the terminals on the relay you have.

The relay is going to be stuck using double side tape on top of the black box thingy (with 2 looms going into it) behind the battery. DON"T STICK IT YET. It makes it a lot easier to plug it all in before you stick it down.

**** WARNING ****. Some relays will have a tab with a hole in it for screwing the relay down rather than using the tape I mentioned. DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT, drill or screw anything into this black box. YOU WILL f*** YOUR BIKES ECU AND STUFF. (Only gixxer riders and their mates do that sort of shit).


You will then need to make up 2 lengths of wire long enoung to reach from where you ar mounting the realy to the negative terminal on the battery. On one end of each bit of wire attach a flat female connector and a round connector on the other end.

The wiring that came with the grips has a bit that has a whit plastic 2-pin plug on on end and on the other, a fuse and both wires are terminated with round connectors. Route this wire under the tank, away from hot engine parts, with the plastic plug end up near the ignition barrel. The end with the round connectors should be near the battery.

Cut the round connector off the wire that DOES NOT have the fuse holder on it, and re-terminate it with a flat connector.

Next to each pin on the relay there should be numbers, 85, 86, 87, 30.

Connect the two short lengths of wire (the ones you prepared earlier long enough to reach from the relay to the battery) as follows: one from terminal 85 to the negative (-) battery, and one from terminal 87 also to the negative battery.

Connect the wire you sliced into the brown wire up the front of the bike to terminal 86 on the relay.

If you turn the ignigtion on and off, you should be able to feel the relay clicking in and out.

Connect the grip wire with the fuse holder on it to the positive (+) terminal on the battery.

Now connect the grip wire you re-terminated with a flat connector to terminal 30 on the relay.

Using the double side tape, stick the relay to the black box behind the battery.

Tidy up all the wiring with cable ties.

The plugs from the grips to the heat contoller and power can only be connected the correct way, due to the way Oxford has fitted the plugs.