Serviced my busa - some pointers.
#1
My '99 Copper/Silver has almost 80.000 k's. Had time on my hands so decided to do as much as I can to it. I will comment on some of the things I did so it may help any others doing the same to their bikes.

Oil & Filter change;
Last oil was the fully synthetic Motul 7100. With price increase I went back to Motul semi syn. 5100 (I think its number). Used a new HiFlo filter. Conclusions; Great improvement, gear change like butter, engine seemed less noisy. Very happy with results.

Choke Lever & Cable: This over the years has been getting sticky and less functional. I opened the housing at the handlebar end and greased up the moving parts. I tried the adjustment nuts at the bar end but they were locked up real tight. So made some adjustments at the throttle body end. Conclusions: The lever works much better and smoother and raised the level of revs at fully open.

Throttle Cable: It was pretty much spot on so just picked up a bit of slack in the cable at TB end. Conclusions: Crisp and fast throttle response.

Air Box & BMC Filter (Race Red): Cleaned filter with detergent and re-oiled with spray. From a K&N filter cleaning kit that I bought a few years back. Cleaned out airbox.

Balancing and Cleaning Throttle Bodies: Removing airbox exposes TB. The TB openings can get pretty dirty and oily especially from the air filters oil. So time to clean them out. I used Wurth Carburettor Cleaner ($15) Throttle body safe fuel residue cleaner. Sprayed in TB's whilst on high rev. It did a fantastic job, fingering the bodies afterward proved how clean they were. Excellent product.

I have a Carbtune for balancing. I never seem to remember the right nipples to connect to between services. So its always a 'brain-fart' connecting as there are 8 nipples to 4 hoses requiring attachment. Eventually I get it right after a few smokos away from the bike. Didnt have any nylons to cover TB opening but careful that nothing falls in. Balanced right and left screw adjusters and almost forgot theres a centre screw to balance both right and left sets. Lotsa 'brain-farts' here. But eventually it comes together. Must have got it all right as test drive when all done proved fantastic and crisp responses.

Throttle Position Sensor & Annual Dump: Didnt need adjusting the -C was centred. Check fuel lines all ok. Opened the sphincter of the arse-hole hose from where the bike gets to do its annual dump. The usual gooey yellowy shit oozes out (oil and water). Gently insert screwdriver into hose to encourage a full dump. Amazing how much shit there. Many people forget to clean them out and I tell you it can sure 'back-up'.

Replace Brake Fluid & Clutch Oil: As per 'Speed Bleeder Review' Thread that I previously posted. I used the new Motul 5.1 for the brakes and had some Dot 4 for the clutch. Bleeding was an absolute breeze using the speed bleeders. Replaced rear pads. Conclusions: My brakes havent felt this tight and good in a long time.

Refurbishing Black Panel Plastics: The 4 pieces under handlebar and dash surround. These get very ugly after a while. Sun bleached and colourless. I have painted them in the past but whatever spray paint I used really wasnt up to the job. Namely a question of adhering to plastic. I bought from Bunnings a new spray on the market from the USA which promised to have a good result on plastic. Its called 'Rust-Oleum' advanced formula all surface paint. Its a Gold/Black spray can. I chose gloss black, a hard toss up between gloss and matt. After cleaning and sanding panels I applied a few coats. 2 of them I overdid it, applied to much and it lost its grain look. Not happy so used old brake fluid to strip the paint and spent a considerable amount of time cleaning them up. Re-sprayed more carefully with 3 very light coats and all was good. So far happy with the results. A major improvement in the look of the bike.

Refurbished Black Plastic Radiator/Oil Cooler surround: This gets pretty dirty and baked on grime especially down the bottom. Good clean and re-paint. Bought 4 new nuts that attach to it for fairing attachment and 4 new fairing screws, some old screw threads were fubared making it hard to come off.

Went for a sunday spin test ride, frakk what an overall improvement. Crisp, highly responsive and improved looks. Hard to imagine this is actually a 10 year old bike that has been trouble free and still goes like a rocket. Any wonder why I still have no desire in replacing it.
[Image: SigPic100.jpg] Copper/Silver - The original, the rest are just copies.
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#2
(VOLVI quote deleted)
Thanks Volvi, I'm doing something similar with the addition of new chain, sprockets, rear rotor and pads. While shes apart i'm cleaning the bits you can't normally get to easily. I also need to put a kit through the clutch master cylinder, I may as well do the brake one as well, any suggestions on where to get these? My 99' has done close to 85,000
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#3
I did a full service on mine last week, replaced oil/filter, plugs, cleaned air filter & airbox, replaced front brake fluid & pads & lubed all the cables, pivot points & chain up. What a difference, especially the front brakes. The original tokico pads were still in it (45000kms) it has EBC HH's now, the beast actually stops! lol
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#4
FastPhil Wrote:(VOLVI quote deleted)
Thanks Volvi, I'm doing something similar with the addition of new chain, sprockets, rear rotor and pads. While shes apart i'm cleaning the bits you can't normally get to easily. I also need to put a kit through the clutch master cylinder, I may as well do the brake one as well, any suggestions on where to get these? My 99' has done close to 85,000

New chain, sprocks? Dont know if youve done them before but for the chain you will need a breaker and riveter, I havent ever done them before, workshop did. Sprockets ok as long as you can get that nut off the front small sprocket, I had a very hard time getting it off without an air tool and size 36 or 38 nut. Then having to have to torque it correctly when tightening, needa torque wrench.

Master clynders no prob, have done them before, just buy a kit for each master from your suzi dealer. I think they were around $38 a set, been a few yrs ago tho. If you do brakes get braided lines if havent already done so, the oem's are not much good after 5 yrs. also look at getting new fuel rubber lines 2 of them, old ones break up after 5-6 yrs and clog up fuel pump. You cud also look at overhauling fuel pump with new o rings and filters. I have made extensive posts on the subjects some yrs ago, so do a search perhaps with my nic.
[Image: SigPic100.jpg] Copper/Silver - The original, the rest are just copies.
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#5
Volvi Wrote:
FastPhil Wrote:(VOLVI quote deleted)
Thanks Volvi, I'm doing something similar with the addition of new chain, sprockets, rear rotor and pads. While shes apart i'm cleaning the bits you can't normally get to easily. I also need to put a kit through the clutch master cylinder, I may as well do the brake one as well, any suggestions on where to get these? My 99' has done close to 85,000

New chain, sprocks? Dont know if youve done them before but for the chain you will need a breaker and riveter, I havent ever done them before, workshop did. Sprockets ok as long as you can get that nut off the front small sprocket, I had a very hard time getting it off without an air tool and size 36 or 38 nut. Then having to have to torque it correctly when tightening, needa torque wrench.

Master clynders no prob, have done them before, just buy a kit for each master from your suzi dealer. I think they were around $38 a set, been a few yrs ago tho. If you do brakes get braided lines if havent already done so, the oem's are not much good after 5 yrs. also look at getting new fuel rubber lines 2 of them, old ones break up after 5-6 yrs and clog up fuel pump. You cud also look at overhauling fuel pump with new o rings and filters. I have made extensive posts on the subjects some yrs ago, so do a search perhaps with my nic.

I did notice the front sprocket looked interesting I'll see how I go, I should be able to borrow a torque wrench. I've done the fuel lines about 5k ago, good idea to do the fuel pump.
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#6
Volvi Wrote:New chain, sprocks? Dont know if youve done them before but for the chain you will need a breaker and riveter,

A hammer and nail punch work great on a good hard surface
[Image: Resizeofbusa005.jpg] REGARDS ROD
MOBILE 0433 92 99 22
kangaroos1996@msn.com
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#7
Volvi,
Good work with the service. I also like to put in my overhauled fuel pump on the big services. I have a few spare ones that I keep ready to put in.
Gaz
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#8
Great to see you are still happy and why not its still a great machine.
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#9
BUSA-RO Wrote:
Volvi Wrote:New chain, sprocks? Dont know if youve done them before but for the chain you will need a breaker and riveter,

A hammer and nail punch work great on a good hard surface

I use a lump (brikies) hammer on the other side while I flare the opening in the posts with a ball peen hammer. Start the flare with a Ramset nail. Been promising myself to upgrade to a riveting jig. One day!
Good weather, good woman, good road, good bike, good-bye!!
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