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INFORMATION AND PICS BY STEVENTH
Difficulty
Easy with the correct tools but fiddly.
Time
30mins or forever - depends if you can access the adjusting nuts etc without removing the infill panel at the underside of the nose. If you need to remove this add 1 hr plus one person to help
Tools
10mm socket with 6-8inch extension
long phillips screwdriver
torch
Disclaimer
This is my interpretation of my research from the web and other sources which I have probably misread and misinterpreted. I am not qualified in any way to offer advice or recommendation. No advice or recommendation is offered or implied by the publishing of this article, nor do I imply or suggest that the modification is appropriate, legal, safe or wont damage yourself or others or property. If you choose to make a similar modification you do so at your own risk and should rely on your own judgement and research from qualified and/or experienced experts in the relevant field.
Headlight Aim.
Proper headlight aim is critical for the safety and comfort of other road users. This is especially true if you have installed HID lights which are 3-5 times brighter than your halogen globes.
Both low and high beams should be sloping toward the ground when the bike has its usual load (rider and panniers etc) and slightly away from the roadâ€s centreline (slightly to the left in countries that drive on the left side of the road).
These instructions are not state specific as each state varies (for example Tas specifies for low beam the entire bright section must be below and to the left of the target which differs to what is suggested here), however I believe they are generally applicable although not technically correct – if you get my drift.
The Aiming Targets
This can be done by one person but is easier if another marks where the light initially hits (step 2) with you on the bike.
1. Find a level surface at least 10m long with a wall at one end.
2. Park the bike facing (perpendicular) and as close to the wall as possible and mark a cross (with chalk or tape) where the bright centre of the low beam hits the wall (the target). Because the Busa has stacked headlights also mark a second target where the high beam hits the wall.
3. Move the bike straight back 8 metres and have it facing the wall.
Horizontal Aim
The idea is to move the vehicle straight back so that it stays perpendicular to the wall. This is difficult on a bike.
4. The easiest thing is to move it back 8 meters and aim your bike at the targets so that the beam (Low and High) is centred horizontally on the target. (The centre of light will probably not hit the target -if it does your lights are too high).
5. Once you have hit the target adjust your headlights horizontal aim so that the bright centre is slightly to the left of the target (on vehicle driven on LHS of the road).
6. Unless your horizontal aim was massively out in the first place the lights should be aimed correctly.
7. Double check by “sighting†along the centreline of the bike (you seated “evenly†on the seat and looking over the apex of the windshield) to ensure the lights lands to the kerb side of the road. Re-adjust if necessary.
Low Beam Vertical Aim
8. Adjust vertical aim so that the top of the bright centre of the low beam is 50mm below the low beam target (the upper target) on the wall.
High Beam Vertical Aim
9. High beam vertical aim should be so the bright centre is just below the high beam target (lower target by say 25mm).
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Busa Gen 1 Adjustment - Low Beam (see attached photo)
I found it easiest to remove the infill panels around the instrument panel.
1. Remove the instrument panel as above. Undo the two instrument panel bolts and “unmount†it (keeping wiring connected). This allowed relatively easy access to the adjustment screws of the headlight unit
2. With a 10mm socket (you will need an extension) rotate the vertical light adjuster while you are sitting on the bike with all your weight as the light aims low without any weight on the bike.
3. Even though my original low beam lights were OK the HID were far too high and needed adjusting – do not assume that yours wonâ€t need adjusting.
Busa Gen 1 Adjustment - High Beam (see photo)
This is easily done with a very long Philips head screwdriver (about 60cm long from SuperCheap). You do not need to remove any panelling.
1. Sit on the bike
2. Slip the long screwdriver forward under the dash into the high beam adjustment screw.
3. Turn the screw driver to lower or increase the hight of the beam. As required.
4. I assume horizontal aim is done with the Low Beam Horizontal adjustment screw.
[attachment=3709]
Difficulty
Easy with the correct tools but fiddly.
Time
30mins or forever - depends if you can access the adjusting nuts etc without removing the infill panel at the underside of the nose. If you need to remove this add 1 hr plus one person to help
Tools
10mm socket with 6-8inch extension
long phillips screwdriver
torch
Disclaimer
This is my interpretation of my research from the web and other sources which I have probably misread and misinterpreted. I am not qualified in any way to offer advice or recommendation. No advice or recommendation is offered or implied by the publishing of this article, nor do I imply or suggest that the modification is appropriate, legal, safe or wont damage yourself or others or property. If you choose to make a similar modification you do so at your own risk and should rely on your own judgement and research from qualified and/or experienced experts in the relevant field.
Headlight Aim.
Proper headlight aim is critical for the safety and comfort of other road users. This is especially true if you have installed HID lights which are 3-5 times brighter than your halogen globes.
Both low and high beams should be sloping toward the ground when the bike has its usual load (rider and panniers etc) and slightly away from the roadâ€s centreline (slightly to the left in countries that drive on the left side of the road).
These instructions are not state specific as each state varies (for example Tas specifies for low beam the entire bright section must be below and to the left of the target which differs to what is suggested here), however I believe they are generally applicable although not technically correct – if you get my drift.
The Aiming Targets
This can be done by one person but is easier if another marks where the light initially hits (step 2) with you on the bike.
1. Find a level surface at least 10m long with a wall at one end.
2. Park the bike facing (perpendicular) and as close to the wall as possible and mark a cross (with chalk or tape) where the bright centre of the low beam hits the wall (the target). Because the Busa has stacked headlights also mark a second target where the high beam hits the wall.
3. Move the bike straight back 8 metres and have it facing the wall.
Horizontal Aim
The idea is to move the vehicle straight back so that it stays perpendicular to the wall. This is difficult on a bike.
4. The easiest thing is to move it back 8 meters and aim your bike at the targets so that the beam (Low and High) is centred horizontally on the target. (The centre of light will probably not hit the target -if it does your lights are too high).
5. Once you have hit the target adjust your headlights horizontal aim so that the bright centre is slightly to the left of the target (on vehicle driven on LHS of the road).
6. Unless your horizontal aim was massively out in the first place the lights should be aimed correctly.
7. Double check by “sighting†along the centreline of the bike (you seated “evenly†on the seat and looking over the apex of the windshield) to ensure the lights lands to the kerb side of the road. Re-adjust if necessary.
Low Beam Vertical Aim
8. Adjust vertical aim so that the top of the bright centre of the low beam is 50mm below the low beam target (the upper target) on the wall.
High Beam Vertical Aim
9. High beam vertical aim should be so the bright centre is just below the high beam target (lower target by say 25mm).
----------------------------------------------------------------
Busa Gen 1 Adjustment - Low Beam (see attached photo)
I found it easiest to remove the infill panels around the instrument panel.
1. Remove the instrument panel as above. Undo the two instrument panel bolts and “unmount†it (keeping wiring connected). This allowed relatively easy access to the adjustment screws of the headlight unit
2. With a 10mm socket (you will need an extension) rotate the vertical light adjuster while you are sitting on the bike with all your weight as the light aims low without any weight on the bike.
3. Even though my original low beam lights were OK the HID were far too high and needed adjusting – do not assume that yours wonâ€t need adjusting.
Busa Gen 1 Adjustment - High Beam (see photo)
This is easily done with a very long Philips head screwdriver (about 60cm long from SuperCheap). You do not need to remove any panelling.
1. Sit on the bike
2. Slip the long screwdriver forward under the dash into the high beam adjustment screw.
3. Turn the screw driver to lower or increase the hight of the beam. As required.
4. I assume horizontal aim is done with the Low Beam Horizontal adjustment screw.
[attachment=3709]