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+--- Thread: Free wheeling or being towed (/showthread.php?tid=22446)
Free wheeling or being towed - Batfink - 19-01-2015
RE: Free wheeling or being towed - busarat - 19-01-2015
If your not riding it I'd say you would be better off to build a decent trailer and trailer it properly!!.just strikes me as the easier option
RE: Free wheeling or being towed - Batfink - 19-01-2015
If there is no issue with free wheeling a bike then tow hitch is a lot easier and cheaper.....
Trailer takes up room, costs rego, seperate insurance and tires plus needs to be constantly hitched and unhitched. What I am thinking of replaces standard tow ball hitch insert, no rego, insurance is covered by vehicle and while bike can be loaded/unloaded fast hitch stays on with no detriment to vehicle.
RE: Free wheeling or being towed - Legend - 19-01-2015
RE: Free wheeling or being towed - Batfink - 19-01-2015
I understand that the gearbox is but I thought the output shaft would be low enough to get continual oil.. Plus there is no load thus no heat
RE: Free wheeling or being towed - BikerBoy - 19-01-2015
Tony, They are already for sale on Ebay.
RE: Free wheeling or being towed - Batfink - 19-01-2015
I know but most I saw don't carry the busa weight.... And are in USA lol
RE: Free wheeling or being towed - Batfink - 19-01-2015
Plus I still wanna know what the issues could be
RE: Free wheeling or being towed - Legend - 19-01-2015
RE: Free wheeling or being towed - Batfink - 19-01-2015
It's that info I am looking for Legend, don't wanna kill a busa while NOT riding it lol
Another option is to mount rear wheel up and tow backwards?
RE: Free wheeling or being towed - Batfink - 19-01-2015
The big question is that both the output and counter shafts have a race bearing on one side and bush on the other (but opposite ends). While the race bearing is not as critical it's the bushing end I am thinking of. As some research says, there will be minimal to no load/torque on the shafts which it what creates the heat and wear.....
RE: Free wheeling or being towed - Legend - 19-01-2015
(19-01-2015, 06:55pm)Batfink Wrote: It's that info I am looking for Legend, don't wanna kill a busa while NOT riding it lol
Another option is to mount rear wheel up and tow backwards?
That would work , once you fix the steering to center....
Leonard.
(19-01-2015, 06:58pm)Batfink Wrote: The big question is that both the output and counter shafts have a race bearing on one side and bush on the other (but opposite ends). While the race bearing is not as critical it's the bushing end I am thinking of. As some research says, there will be minimal to no load/torque on the shafts which it what creates the heat and wear.....
Needle bearings, not bushes.
I have seen damage caused to an output shaft by incorrect installation of the needle bearing, now that was from normal riding with oil circulation.
Leonard.
RE: Free wheeling or being towed - Batfink - 19-01-2015
So each has a race bearing on one she and needle on the other?
RE: Free wheeling or being towed - Legend - 19-01-2015
(19-01-2015, 07:11pm)Batfink Wrote: So each has a race bearing on one she and needle on the other?
RE: Free wheeling or being towed - Batfink - 19-01-2015
Workshop manual is a bit unclear lol
So maybe needle race bearing each end with a oil seal ensuring they aren't f****d by gearbox oils? Then mid point thrust bushes for load?