Airbox mod

[FastPhil]

I want to do the air box mod, I know how to do the mod but need instruction on how to actually remove the air box to do it. Any suggestions?

[horndog]

I want to do the air box mod, I know how to do the mod but need instruction on how to actually remove the air box to do it. Any suggestions?

FastPhil, I havent taken my airbox off for a while so from memory heres how it goes. Anyone can feel free to correct me if I miss something but it is a fairly basic task. Always keep your intakes surgically clean and free of foreign matter.

1. Remove Seat Two 5mm allen key bolts.
   
2. Undo two Allen key bolts at front of tank and hinge tank up. Prop tank with rod from under pillion seat
   
3. Loosen allen key clamps under airbox (4mm I think) which secure airbox to throttle bodies.
   
4. Remove bolt at front of airbox which secures to frame, 10mm bolt.
   
5. Tilt and wiggle airbox to free from throttle body.
   
6. Before removing air box entirely, remove associated vacuum hoses and electrical plugs. Be sure to mark up where the hoses and plugs go.
   

Refitting is the reverse order. Ensure when you put the airbox back in that the airbox mounts correctly back on to the throttle bodies. It can be a bit of a pain sometimes.
If you have trouble getting them to slide in you can use a damp cloth to dampen the rubber grommets to help them slide in. Use something non abrasive and non oil based otherwise they can slip off very easily once tightened.
CRC is abrasive!

The mod is listed out on Brocks website if you havent got it. I used a hacksaw blade instead of drilling around the flap. Even easier was heating the blade with a gas torch and it makes it a quick job and less messy.

Remember to keep your intakes covered while the airbox is off and ensure the box is free of debris before you put it back on.

http://www.brockracing.com/Instructions/airboxmod.htm
Hope it helps.

[FastPhil]

I want to do the air box mod, I know how to do the mod but need instruction on how to actually remove the air box to do it. Any suggestions?

FastPhil, I havent taken my airbox off for a while so from memory heres how it goes. Anyone can feel free to correct me if I miss something but it is a fairly basic task. Always keep your intakes surgically clean and free of foreign matter.

1. Remove Seat Two 5mm allen key bolts.
   
2. Undo two Allen key bolts at front of tank and hinge tank up. Prop tank with rod from under pillion seat
   
3. Loosen allen key clamps under airbox (4mm I think) which secure airbox to throttle bodies.
   
4. Remove bolt at front of airbox which secures to frame, 10mm bolt.
   
5. Tilt and wiggle airbox to free from throttle body.
   
6. Before removing air box entirely, remove associated vacuum hoses and electrical plugs. Be sure to mark up where the hoses and plugs go.
   

Refitting is the reverse order. Ensure when you put the airbox back in that the airbox mounts correctly back on to the throttle bodies. It can be a bit of a pain sometimes.
If you have trouble getting them to slide in you can use a damp cloth to dampen the rubber grommets to help them slide in. Use something non abrasive and non oil based otherwise they can slip off very easily once tightened.
CRC is abrasive!

The mod is listed out on Brocks website if you havent got it. I used a hacksaw blade instead of drilling around the flap. Even easier was heating the blade with a gas torch and it makes it a quick job and less messy.

Remember to keep your intakes covered while the airbox is off and ensure the box is free of debris before you put it back on.

http://www.brockracing.com/Instructions/airboxmod.htm
Hope it helps.

Thanks Horndog! That should about cover it

[FastPhil]

I want to do the air box mod, I know how to do the mod but need instruction on how to actually remove the air box to do it. Any suggestions?

FastPhil, I havent taken my airbox off for a while so from memory heres how it goes. Anyone can feel free to correct me if I miss something but it is a fairly basic task. Always keep your intakes surgically clean and free of foreign matter.

1. Remove Seat Two 5mm allen key bolts.
   
2. Undo two Allen key bolts at front of tank and hinge tank up. Prop tank with rod from under pillion seat
   
3. Loosen allen key clamps under airbox (4mm I think) which secure airbox to throttle bodies.
   
4. Remove bolt at front of airbox which secures to frame, 10mm bolt.
   
5. Tilt and wiggle airbox to free from throttle body.
   
6. Before removing air box entirely, remove associated vacuum hoses and electrical plugs. Be sure to mark up where the hoses and plugs go.
   

Refitting is the reverse order. Ensure when you put the airbox back in that the airbox mounts correctly back on to the throttle bodies. It can be a bit of a pain sometimes.
If you have trouble getting them to slide in you can use a damp cloth to dampen the rubber grommets to help them slide in. Use something non abrasive and non oil based otherwise they can slip off very easily once tightened.
CRC is abrasive!

The mod is listed out on Brocks website if you havent got it. I used a hacksaw blade instead of drilling around the flap. Even easier was heating the blade with a gas torch and it makes it a quick job and less messy.

Remember to keep your intakes covered while the airbox is off and ensure the box is free of debris before you put it back on.

http://www.brockracing.com/Instructions/airboxmod.htm
Hope it helps.

Thanks Horndog! That should about cover it

Thanks to Simmo and Horndog for your help,
airbox done PC2 installed and mapped (I used a map downloaded from the PC website it is European and for a full system with modified air box and standard or K&N filter). Bike goes great but is missing something down low and has a hesitation and surge around 3,500-4,000 rpms any suggestions?

[simmo]

Start playing with your map try adding fuel in that area, or best look at some of my maps and copy them around the around 3,500-4,000 rpm (check the date of the maps use the newest one's)

[horndog]

[/quote]

Thanks to Simmo and Horndog for your help,
airbox done PC2 installed and mapped (I used a map downloaded from the PC website it is European and for a full system with modified air box and standard or K&N filter). Bike goes great but is missing something down low and has a hesitation and surge around 3,500-4,000 rpms any suggestions?
[/quote]

Did you plug the vacuum line that used to go to the flapper valve? I just realised that I left that off the list.

Ultimately a tune up on a dyno is one way to ensure the bike runs best but I like to use a wideband commander to tune my bike.

No two engine are ever really the same and mapping for your engine would be the best option. Once you own a wideband you can keep it for any bike you own and it will pay itself off compared to dyno costs real quick. Only problem is you wont get a HP measurement and a graph but I measure my improvements by time on the 1/4.

[spamanglenn]

Thats why you buy a veypor.You can do a fuel change and do a run from rpmx to rpm y and log it,better or worse.3500-4000 is probably too rich you have to pull alot of fuel out there.With the lcd screen and a veypor you have everything in front of you.A/F,TP,dutycycle,rpm,roadspeed,and an accelerometer to log a change.The lcd can adjust real time without any unplugging etc and make another pass.remember to use 91 octane if you want to retain bottom end power.

[FastPhil]

Thanks to Simmo and Horndog for your help,
airbox done PC2 installed and mapped (I used a map downloaded from the PC website it is European and for a full system with modified air box and standard or K&N filter). Bike goes great but is missing something down low and has a hesitation and surge around 3,500-4,000 rpms any suggestions?
[/quote]

Did you plug the vacuum line that used to go to the flapper valve? I just realised that I left that off the list.

Ultimately a tune up on a dyno is one way to ensure the bike runs best but I like to use a wideband commander to tune my bike.

No two engine are ever really the same and mapping for your engine would be the best option. Once you own a wideband you can keep it for any bike you own and it will pay itself off compared to dyno costs real quick. Only problem is you wont get a HP measurement and a graph but I measure my improvements by time on the 1/4.
[/quote]

I reconnected the vac hose. it says to do this or block it of on the Brock web site. I know it is now redundant but at least it is closed of that way.
When I can I'll put it in a dyno but its interesting mucking around with it myself at the moment.

[FastPhil]

Start playing with your map try adding fuel in that area, or best look at some of my maps and copy them around the around 3,500-4,000 rpm (check the date of the maps use the newest one's)

Yeah I'll do that and thanks for those Simmo, I am in the process of working out how I can transfer them from floppies to cd's